Apart from the fact that Jaguar did route this cable all the way round the front of the engine.....is there any reason why I shouldn’t create a shorter cable and take the direct route around the back of the block...?
I don’t see any physical reason why this couldn’t work...but would like to know if there is some reason like length of cable or proximity to the main dashboard instruments perhaps...?
Jonathan
Routing of starter motor cable
#1 Routing of starter motor cable
1963 3.8 FHC ..now finished …………….
1974 2.7 Carrera now as an RS Touring
1974 2.7 Carrera now as an RS Touring
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christopher storey
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- Location: cheshire , england

#2 Re: Routing of starter motor cable
There is no route over the bulkhead which does not collide with a number of obstacles such as the steady bar arrangement, wiper motor etc , throttle linkage bars etc. Also, such a route is almost certainly exposing it to more heat than the more circuitous, but much neater, route round the front of the engine. However, since there are no sensitive electronics on 6 cylinder Es I doubt that any flux etc problems would arise
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#3 Re: Routing of starter motor cable
Many thanks Christopher....good to know it is possible
Coincidently I came across an earlier and similar question and that Julian (kinglets) had taken a similar approach
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3488
Regards
Jonathan
Coincidently I came across an earlier and similar question and that Julian (kinglets) had taken a similar approach
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3488
Regards
Jonathan
1963 3.8 FHC ..now finished …………….
1974 2.7 Carrera now as an RS Touring
1974 2.7 Carrera now as an RS Touring
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#4 Re: Routing of starter motor cable
Modern starter cables and ground straps are often made with soft copper which allows you more latitude in routing and how easily they can wag under load. By contrast the s3 has a relatively inflexible (harder grade copper) starter cable which runs in a gentle arc from the terminal post on the right hand engine frame more or less vertically down to the starter motor on the right side of the block.
So long as the bit that moves has room to do so laterally and doesn't pull tight anywhere, then you'll be fine. Just bear in mind it'll get hot if you crank aimlessly for any period of time, so tying it down against sharp metal straps may be "unhelpful".
The same logic applies to the ground strap 100%. It is part of the same circuit.
kind regards
Marek
So long as the bit that moves has room to do so laterally and doesn't pull tight anywhere, then you'll be fine. Just bear in mind it'll get hot if you crank aimlessly for any period of time, so tying it down against sharp metal straps may be "unhelpful".
The same logic applies to the ground strap 100%. It is part of the same circuit.
kind regards
Marek
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