The 'E' Type Forum

Hi everybody,
Before attempting this job I searched the website forums (incl this good one!) and picked up some very useful tips. As there seemed to be no single source to collect them all together, I decided to video the job with commentary.
The job split down into 7 steps with approx. 2mins of video on each one, so the sequence and approx. index to the video is:-
1. Preparation
2. Tank bolt release
3. Bulkhead bracket removal
4. Sump & Sender removal
5. Filler tube release
6. Tank out
7. Refit
I hope it helps!

Very useful indeed thank you. Two additional points I would make are that

1. instead of cutting a hole in the bulkhead flange, a thin magnetic wand ( I use the end section of an old telescopic wand ) will enable you to position the left hand bulkhead bolt above the captive thread

2. Unfortunately, the dimensions of individual cars do vary so that sometimes there is insufficient clearance between bulkhead and rear valance to get the tank out without scraping something

I took mine out to fix a leak...it was a job invented by the devil....quite how Jaguar ever fitted them on the line I shall never know....I admire those people who did it for a living....as after a day doing it I would be devising a plan to murder who ever who came up with the fuel tank design bit

Once you have the tank out, take a look at how much sheet metal exists on the lip going all of the way around proud of the spot weld holding the two halves together. You may be able to shave up to a centimetre from the depthwise dimension of the tank without compromising the seal in any way. That'd make refitting a breeze and will also make taking it out a second time much easier.

kind regards
Marek

Thanks Marek....next time it is out I will look at that. Worst bit was reconnecting the fill hose and vent hose in the wheel arch...

Use a tiny amount of vaseline for the hose.

kind regards
Marek

Thank you all for your constructive feedback. Im glad that the vid is proving useful.
Regarding the point Christopher makes about drilling a hole in the bulkhead flange to fit the LH bolt:-
I found that I could position the bolt and even rotate it, but it would not take up on the thread, without vertical pressure from above. I did try various methods, but in the end decided I had to go nuclear and cut the hole! Once I did this and applied my weight from above, it engaged straight away.
I guess its the luck of the draw on how tight the threads are, in each individual case.
Best regards!

You should try it once on an OTS and see what a joy it can be...

I wanted to give you a long distance (Yank) Thank You! I have been searching for some simple instructions on how to remove the fuel tank from my 66 Coupe. The 7 steps and the video were perfect! About an hour and the task was complete. Keep up the Great Work!

Currently struggling myself with a repro fuel tank in a M. Robey repro shell.. not a great combination!! BUT my tip is you can be spanner free for this job. Just buy a small 1/4 drive socket set with a 6"extension bar which is suitably narrow and delicate to access all three bolts. You will then need a 1/4 drive 9/16" AF hex socket off Ebay like this one ..... 252467420190. 1/4 drive sets do not usually have the 9/16" socket but with this combination no more struggling turning one or two flats at a time with spanners, even the tricky rear left one. SImples
Regards Graham

Excellent video! I'm awaiting a new tank being delivered and in the process of removing the old. Some very useful tips in the comments too!
Cheers Mark