jacking points and axle stand locations

[Echezeaux]

The first time that I wanted to jack up my E, I spent some time on my back looking at the underneath of the car to find some suitable locations.
Here are some pictures that I think could help a new owner like me of an E-type.
Lifting the front, by the crossmember behind the radiator.

This post took me 1/2 hr to do,plus some swearing ! But !! many thanks to David for the How to post pictures sticky.

[Echezeaux]

Now for the axle stands.Inside or outside the wishbone

[Echezeaux]

Jacking the side up by the factory location, and the a/stand.

[Echezeaux]

And last the rear, the exhaust as been removed for,as they say, a better view
And the position of the a/stand.
I have now some dedicated piece of woods and rubber blocks for the job.

[Moeregaard]

Seeing the jack stand under the front A-arm trunnion brings up a point I haven't seen mentioned. When the car's weight is taken off the front suspension, the only things keeping everything from dropping to the bottom of its travel are the front dampers. If these are removed, gravity and the torsion bars' pre-load will allow the A-arms to drop to the extent that the ball-joints will "neck" and damage the boots.

That said, the trunnions are probably the most stable location for the stands.

[Car-Nut]

Good thread Echezeaux Thanks for taking the time :)

I was just gonna post for the best rear place to trolly jack...

I will be taking all my wheels off in a couple of weeks at the same time looks like the side points will be the best place to my hold car then.

Like you Im cutting my woods to suit the car

Wheres the back jacking point though if exhaust is on and you want to get to the gearbox oil, or is it a deffinate exhaust off

[Echezeaux]

Hi Car-Nut

My piece of wood for the rear jacking point ( under the diff ) with the exhaust on measures :
45cm X 8 cm or 18'' X 3''

I found that the exhaust line from the manifolds to the end was really easy to remove and refit as one piece.
I removed it twice to change oil in the G/box and to fix an oil leak on the right angle speedo drive, so easy to work and you can see what you do !! And nearly no swearing !
Until now I haven't replaced the exhaust ring seals once, I just smeared them with copper sealant and Bingo,no leaks, you just need to jack up the car high enough. Anyway, you need to be able to move comfortably under a car. And like me , you can even have a beer laying underneath your car, gazing at the bits & pieces and making plans for the future !

On the same topic, I found that if you support your car under the sils like I show in the 5th picture, the floor can cave a bit. Be careful!.

And thanks for the appreciation of the post.

Thierry

[Heuer]

Great post Echezeaux - so many people damage their cars by jacking in the wrong place - and good to have photos to explain.

[Car-Nut]

So in two weeks time when my wheels will be off for a couple of days how's the best way to do it, re positioning of axle stands

[Heuer]

An axle stand under each hub - put some thick card on the stand face to protect the splines. Will also give you a chance to safely get under the car for any outstanding jobs.

[Car-Nut]

An axle stand under each hub - put some thick card on the stand face to protect the splines. Will also give you a chance to safely get under the car for any outstanding jobs.

thanks David, I'll do a picture when done for this thread

[Heuer]

This is how Angus did it:


? Angus Moss etc etc

You can also see where the horns mount on the later cars and well worth following the same principle for yours when you get round to it.

[skiday]

Angus did a nice job. In fact I think it looks more beautiful with the bonnet off than on!

[Rteyp]

Sorry to raise an old thread but its all the search function brought up and unfortunately the pictures have expired and not showin (1965 FHC)

I have a trolly jack and over the winter want to work on renovating my wheels, maybe even changing them, so looking for advice on where to precisely jack front and rear ?

Thanks in advance
John

[JerryL770]

[christopher storey]

At the front , there are two choices : 1. using a block of hardwood inserted into the bottom channel in the picture frame 2. Under the foremost part of the inner end of the front part of the wish bone i.e the trunnion

At the rear , using a block of wood ( preferably shaped ) under the final drive

Note that in each case you MUST for safety's sake add an axle stand under a secure part e.g. wishbone of each corner where a wheel is removed

[Tom W]

There are a few things to consider to ensure you’re jacking the car up safely. If you put axle stands underneath the hubs or the ends of the wishbones etc, then there’s a tendency for them to splay out at the top as the car is lowered onto them. That’s because of the arc the outer end of the wishbone moves through.

If you put the stands under part of the body structure, you’re left with the IRS hanging from the V-mounts at the rear. Not a problem for a short time if you’re mounts are good, but not something I’d like to leave hanging for a long time. Similarly at the front, all the preload from the torsion bars is taken through the damper and upper and lower damper mounts.

[dal2.0litrefrogeye]

Just thinking out loud but the hard wood for the front picture frame , don't a couple of the usual companies actually sell a piece that is designed to be bolted in there , so it's always there ready to be used ???