The 'E' Type Forum

Hi all,

I am currently looking at a US import E-type 2+2 1971 with about 70k miles. Looking at its last MOT "failure" it shows the following and I wanted to understand if these would make it a no go, or how much would it be to fix the suspension issues noted. Some of the items such as lamps and tyres have been fixed. Would also welcome everyone's views on the current market and what is a reasonable entry cost knowing these:

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):

Nearside Rear Tyre has a tear, caused by separation or partial failure of its structure Junction of outer sidewall and tread separated so as to expose the fabric. (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Nearside Front Lower Suspension component mounting prescribed area so inadequately repaired that control of the vehicle is likely to be adversely affected Wishbone abutment point has been repaired, welding judged inadequate, not continuously welded. (5.3.6 (a) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):

Nearside Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):

Nearside Front Position lamp incorrect colour Amber covers fitted. (4.2.3 (a) (i))
Offside Front Position lamp incorrect colour Amber cover fitted. (4.2.3 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Brake pipe inadequately clipped or supported Under spaceframe pipe is out of clip. (1.1.11 (d) (i))

by the way - it is a LHD Auto

The front suspension defect is very major indeed. The description of the fault also indicates that the tester knows nothing about E types, because the front frames must NEVER be welded. They are made of special Renold tubing and are heat treated and can only be brazed . If the front frame has fractured , then the only option is to replace at least the affected frame, and frankly on a vehicle now 50 years old. the only sensible choice is to replace all the frames. You are talking several thousands of pounds for parts alone , and changing them is a major job, so that a bill of say £8K is by no means out of the way. Furthermore, a car of this age may well have major bodywork problems for which there is no real limit to the bill . I am sorry to be discouraging but this is probably the least valuable E type and unless there was compelling reason ( such as a family attachment ) to spend large sums on it, i would not do so

I agree entirely with Christopher.

The Reynolds tubing is only around 0.8mm wall thickness when it is not rusted out. The engine frames are brazed together as it is pretty much impossible to weld this material, and repairs are essentially not feasible.

Unless the car is very very cheap you would be well advised to look elsewhere.

I would agree with Andrew.
If this were an early car and very cheap then there might be a good reason to take it on as a project, but expect a huge (many £‘000s) Bill.
The amount spent will be the same for any etype in a similar condition but the final value of the car depends more upon its model/originality/ rarity.
If it is just being done for the love of it then that’s a different mattter!
Happy hunting
Robbie

One assumes that the seller is responsible, in some way for the repairs, either commissioning them or doing them. It makes sense, if they are so inept as to put the car in for a MOT test with other glaring failure points. It’s not as if specialist knowledge is required to find a torn tyre or decayed dust covers or worn ball joints. I’d worry more about the other stuff that hasn’t been found. Rust, filler, non standard or second hand parts.......

Actually, I wouldn’t. I’d walk away, muttering fecking winker under my breath.