The 'E' Type Forum

I may need to change my clutch master cylinder.
Came across this:-

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK ... f9826cd4e2

£332 !!!

I may just pass on this one.

All of the usuals sell cheaper versions of course but of more interest is that this is just a generic version for many vehicles and available at half the price.

It pays to shop around !

Dont blow it......
Get the WILLWOOD ,Its the exact look and spec but BUILT to the best quality....
NO LOOSE ROD, OR THE STEP DOWN CLICK.
The rest are repro junk.
Get the Willwood , its brand new and top quality, I dont think its 50 dollars?
gtjoey1314

Thanks Joey,
I’m seriously considering the Wilwood.
Have heard about too many failures on the cheapo generic units.

Tim

Thanks to those who posted replies and for those who sent a PM.

On going through old receipts I found that I haven’t replaced this master cylinder but did use a seal kit about 3 years ago. I think that this is starting to fail. See my other thread on black clutch fluid.

Anyway, i wasn’t prepared to spend serious money on the genuine jaguar master cylinder and frankly am very dubious about the very cheap repro items which can be obtained anywhere with prices from about £12.
These fit a multiple of vehicles.
It’s a it of a faff changing this so I wanted a quality bit of kit.

From advice here I went for the Wilwood cylinder which arrived today. I won’t get to fit until next week but it does appear extremely well made . Cost was about £50

Hi Tim....the part number would be usefull for anyone in the future wanting to copy you....cheers...Steve

Hi Steve,
This is the item.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/wilwood-co ... lsrc=aw.ds

I also purchased the associated fork end, which by the way has a simple end clip so no fumbling with split pins whilst lying on my back in the footwell.

( if it’s not acceptable to show supplier details then please delete this post)

Service from the supplier was exceptional, ordered late yesterday afternoon and delivered today.

Tim

I've been running a Wildwood clutch MC for a dozen years or so with zero issues. Replaced seals in the clutch slave cylinder three times in that time, most recently with the Isuzu Trooper piston and seal recommended over on the U.S. Jag Lovers site. I'm hopeful I'm done with clutch hydraulics issues for awhile. I do change my hydraulic fluid (brakes, clutch) every couple of years, btw.

Just thought I would continue this saga whilst relaxing with a well earned cup of tea.

So how do you change this item? Well first of all ignore the manual. The most difficult task is gaining access to the cotter pin between pedal and cylinder. This is hidden deep in the bowels of the footwell .
So you can either disconnect all hydraulics ( including the brakes which you have spent countless hours bleeding) and remove the pedal box complete or prepare yourself for entry down down below.

To get to this item you need unhindered access and importantly means to get out again!
So remove the drivers seat and the the steering wheel, carpets and associated coverings.
Now the interesting bit;
With good lighting in one hand and needle nose pliers in the other you lie on your back, head deep in the footwell with legs dangling over the rear bulkhead. Perspiring heavily wrestle with the split pin ( providing you can see it )

After about 45 minutes having cut the split pin into bits and the cotter pin extracted and you’re done.

Just one last thing keep your mobile phone within reach so your loved one can tug you out should you get stuck.

we need photos

I think there may already be a picture of Here’s One I Made Earlier ……….

See my avatar.

What did you think Louise was up to on her back in the footwell ?

rfs1957 wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:42 pm

What did you think Louise was up to on her back in the footwell ?

Wouldn’t we all like to know!

I was going to refer to Rory’s avatar but this is a family show !

I maybe able send one of me in a similar position but my legs don’t seem to have the same attraction.

Sorry to join the party late - and return the post to boring technicality - but another solution giving more durability than a plain aluminium unit, (of whatever manufacturer), which would always remain prone to bore corrosion, is to simply send off the unit to be sleeved in stainless steel.
Regards,
Dave

Just a little addition to this now the job is mostly completed.

The cylinder fits perfectly. The size is exactly the same and all fixings, pipework etc line up with any changes.

The small fly in the ointment was that you can’t use the the very neat fork end and associated clevis pin as the width between the forks is too small. So you have to reuse the original. Five minute job to change over but it means that you’re back to using a split pin through the clevis.
So tomorrow it’s back to bleeding the system.

As a footnote :
When I dismantled the used cylinder it had no signs of leaking but the bore and seals were decidedly black so i may have caught this in time. All started with a routine fluid change !!

Tim

Tim, Great job, You will notice once you press the pedal that the ACTION is smooth throughout
And theres no gap or jingle step and click as the crap repros do.
Tell us the great news once bled.
gtjoey1314

Tim, can I ask how you’ve found the Wilwood master cylinder in use? They sell for about £50 whereas to have the original sleeved in stainless is twice that price. Any saving is useful to pay for other bits for the car.

Thanks for any comments

Geoff

Thanks for all the advice in this thread.
I need to replace my original Girling clutch master. If I go the Wildwood route, can I simply swap the supplied threaded pushrod for the pushrod and clevis pin from my existing clutch master?
My car is ‘on the road’, so I want the most simplest, most certain route to replacing it with something reliable; other than the ££ S&G original.
Thanks for any recommendations, reassurance etc

‘67 S1 4.2 2p2

I recall that I had to swap the pushrod. It wasn’t complicated but I can’t remember the details.
3 years on and it’s still fine - although not so many miles.
Strangely enough I was thinking of changing the fluid just to check. I’ll report back once it’s done.

I have just fitted a willwood master cylinder, I cut the fork off the old one, drilled it clearance to match the willwood rod ( think it was 5/16 unf) then filed 2 flats on a nut so it would fit into the fork to act as a locking nut against the nut already on the wilwood rod. I think I had to shorten the willwood rod by 1/2 an inch or so as it fouled the pedal,
Hope that makes sense
Ian

Thanks both. A couple of options there which is good. If I can reuse the existing pushrod that would be great; simpler with access so hard without taking out the pedal box.
I think that in turn depends how far into the footwell the actuating surface within the wildwood cylinder bore projects, as compared to the Girling when fitted to the car. Is there any offset? They must be fairly close, as Tim I think you literally swapped the two pushrods?
Does anyone have a measurement of the length of their wildwood rod from its base to centre of the cotter pin hole? If both Girling and wildwood setups were side-by-side on the bench it’ll be easier to see.
I’ll get one ordered up, (I noticed that there is a new black anodised version that says it is rebuildable available too). I’ve also found in my spares a new old stock Girling rebuild kit, so maybe a plan B.
All I need to do now is shrink in size and become double jointed to get at the cotter pin etc!