The 'E' Type Forum

Hi All, I've recently bought a Thor Hammer lead mallet from SNGB for the purpose of removing the spinners and also bought an aftermarket adaptor as my car has the 3-eared spinners from Federal spec cars. I've only used them a few times and am concerned that the mallet won't last long at all:-

I even had large chunks coming off the mallet:-


Does anyone else have experience using these adaptors and what type of mallet works best? I think perhaps the sharp corners of the adaptor are quite aggressive to any soft mallet. I also have one of the other adaptors to use with a 38mm socket and 3/4" drive 3' breaker bar but have had occasions when that won't move the spinners at all.
Thanks

Lead mallet for two ear spinners. For federal spinners with adapter a Thor copper/hide mallet.

Ross, I have one of the adapters you mentioned and find that sometimes I need to stand on the end of the breaker bar if the spinners have tightened up in use. Also you can sometimes find a jack under the breaker bar with the weight of the car against it will start loosening the spinner. It is easy to over tighten the spinner with the adapter and breaker bar, so be careful. Do you use any copper slip on the threads? Just be careful where you use it, but it does help.

Good luck

Geoff

Thanks David, thanks Geoff,
I felt that with the 3' breaker bar with all my force / body weight the pressure on the aluminium spinner adaptor would destroy it. I was advised by Butlins to use a heavy mallet. I will get a heavy copper & hide Thor mallet. I don't put any copper slip on because I usually feel there is too much grease on there and am not 100% sure where the no go zones are. Where should you put the copper slip? On the thread or where the spinner mates with the wheel centre?
Thanks again.

Coppa slip in my opinion is ok.....on the thread and splines....its not reccomended on the taper mating surface of the wheel and hub........this is becaus grit/dirt can easily get on a greased surface and prevent a perfect wheel to hub mate.......personaly i very lightly copa slip but before fitting the wheel wipe the taper surface of the wheel and hub.....Steve

I prefer the Thor nylon faced mallet. It is very heavy and the nylon part is replaceable and does zero damage to my spinners.

Jerry, out of interest which Thor nylon mallet? Thanks

Geoff

Gfhug wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 07, 2024 4:50 pm

Jerry, out of interest which Thor nylon mallet? Thanks

Geoff

This one: https://www.thorhammer.com/product/12-712n/

Ah! So it’s a hammer not a mallet Sorry, couldn’t resist that.
Thanks Jerry, now I can get one myself and keep it to hand. Though I rarely need to use a hammer or mallet as the spinner adapter and breaker bar do a fine job for me. And others will know which one to buy too.

Cheers

Geoff

Hi

The hammer (mallet) linked to above is far too small for spinner removal. I would suggest the 63mm diameter/2kg item otherwise you'll be pounding away all day and end up with nothing but a broken hammer!

Regards

you'll struggle to crack you walnuts with that

Isn’t the nominal size hammer a no. 2 for the copper/hide hammer? That weighs in at a bit over 1 kg, not 2 kg. This nylon one weighs 1.2 kg. https://www.thorhammer.com/product/12-716n/
Anyone got any walnuts to try it on?

Geoff

We'll, it's better than the 570g version previously mentioned.

I have the same set up as the OP, and often find that the adaptor with 3/4 drive and breaker bar won't move the spinner.
I then use the brass? adaptor and a normal lump hammer - it doesn't matter if that adaptor gets marked. Although the spinner doesn't seem to move much, a few good clouts results in the breaker bar assembly then working.

Copper and hide inserts are available for the Thor No 2. Search on your favourite on line market place.

Although copper is soft it will damage the Chrome spinners. Lead is better. Those who have used lead mallets for years melt and reform the heads regularly. Keep the chunks that fall off.

Search the J-L forums for more info on lead hammers.

Didn’t David say lead for the two eared spinners of the S1 as you are striking directly on the spinner, but copper for hitting the brass(?) adapter that goes over the S2 federal three eared spinners?

Geoff

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 09, 2024 8:51 pm

you'll struggle to crack you walnuts with that

AH!! Yes. I didn't go into the garage to rummage in the boot to check my "hammer/mallet" and just went by the look of that hammer - I did not consider the weight listed but that's the type I use. It does not mark the spinners at all which a copper head does, in my experience, and mine is plenty heavy enough.

Have you tried replacing the hide in a copper/hide mallet? I bought a replacement for mine before I found out how impossible replacement is, as the steel of the body is swaged onto the hide in new mallets.

There is a 'how to' guide on the Thor Hammer website but by the looks of it you need a hydraulic press and a special purpose tool for the swaging operation.
I can't decide between the Thor size 3 copper hammer 04-314 1940g and nylon dead blow hammer 20-2020 1850g. Any thoughts for use with the brass 3 eared spinner adaptor. I have the correct copper / hide hammer in the tool roll. This replacement is to be a workshop tool to save the wear on the original.

I have used a Thor Copper mallet on my spinners and it did leave some marking. My hide insert is almost completely flattened and really needs replacing but, as you state, the Thor description of what is needed makes it pretty much impossible.

The nylon mallet works fine for me and the nylon insert is easily replaceable.

Hi Ross...to be honest the best tool to use on the 3 ear spinner adaptor as a standard type steel lump hammer and mentioned previously in this thread...these spinners can ne really hard to undo... I put a piece of old denim(jeans) over the spinner then fit the adaptor..then a few good whacks with the builders lump hammer....it never fails me....Steve