Front Suspension. What finish Painting/POR15?
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#1 Front Suspension. What finish Painting/POR15?
Hi All...Front suspension is fully stripped & cleaned up...my dilema is what finnish to apply, Its not a show car but i want a silver durable finish. Having talked to some other E Type owners a combination of zinc/nickle/powder/painting have all been used, & one recomendation was to zinc & then paint over...but then would have to use an etch primer & what durable paint?....has any one used POR 15 which I have heard of as 'poor mans powder coating' but never spoken to anyone that has used it.......the write up on the net looks great but then they are selling it....Im sure that many of you have had this problem, what have you used & are you happy with the results & would you use the same again.....Thanks Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#2
Hi Steve
I am using POR15 in the restoration of the suspension parts for my Lotus Elite, and I am very impressed with the results I?m getting.
Firstly, I?m brushing it on, but once it?s dry you really couldn?t tell. The coat seems to shrink around whatever you?ve painted, providing a really smooth finish. It fills in small rust spots as well.
Secondly, it seems to be incredibly strong. I tried painting a rusty bit of metal before attacking the bits of my car. After a week, I tried sanding it, then hitting it with a hammer, and it seems to be a lot more durable that powder coating. There is absolutely no comparison with Hammerite, which I?ve found chips very easily and doesn?t last too long. It does say on the tin to clean the lid very carefully before replacing it which, on the third or fourth time of using, I didn?t. There was absolutely no way I could get the lid off the next day, and after half an hour of trying, had to cut the tin open!
Finally, it can be painted over by whatever paint you want. As the Elite suspension was originally battleship grey with a hint of green, no powder coating scheme could give me the right colour, so a final overcoat is required. That could be important for the E Type suspension, as you really need a dull zinc finish for a lot of the suspension, which you could probably get in an aerosol.
I was put onto this POR15 by a mate with a rally Escort who painted the whole of the underside of the car with the stuff. The car was a bit rusty, and he just wanted to tidy it up. 5 years later, with the car constantly driving through rivers, in salt, covered in mud and bashed about, and the underside still looks like new. I was impressed!
Try it out on a small component and see what you think.
I am using POR15 in the restoration of the suspension parts for my Lotus Elite, and I am very impressed with the results I?m getting.
Firstly, I?m brushing it on, but once it?s dry you really couldn?t tell. The coat seems to shrink around whatever you?ve painted, providing a really smooth finish. It fills in small rust spots as well.
Secondly, it seems to be incredibly strong. I tried painting a rusty bit of metal before attacking the bits of my car. After a week, I tried sanding it, then hitting it with a hammer, and it seems to be a lot more durable that powder coating. There is absolutely no comparison with Hammerite, which I?ve found chips very easily and doesn?t last too long. It does say on the tin to clean the lid very carefully before replacing it which, on the third or fourth time of using, I didn?t. There was absolutely no way I could get the lid off the next day, and after half an hour of trying, had to cut the tin open!
Finally, it can be painted over by whatever paint you want. As the Elite suspension was originally battleship grey with a hint of green, no powder coating scheme could give me the right colour, so a final overcoat is required. That could be important for the E Type suspension, as you really need a dull zinc finish for a lot of the suspension, which you could probably get in an aerosol.
I was put onto this POR15 by a mate with a rally Escort who painted the whole of the underside of the car with the stuff. The car was a bit rusty, and he just wanted to tidy it up. 5 years later, with the car constantly driving through rivers, in salt, covered in mud and bashed about, and the underside still looks like new. I was impressed!
Try it out on a small component and see what you think.
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#3
I have used POR 15 on a lot of applications and agree it is excellent forma type of skin around the componens. Better if sprayed on but I have also good results when using an aerosol can to paint over :D
Kind Regards John
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#4
Hi Guys......You both mention painting over the POR this is one of my dilemas.....the finished item is only as good as the top coat, which unless very durable will chip/scratch/wear. exposing the POR or zinc/nickle sub surface.....a particular concern it refitting the wishbones back on to their shafts after they are finished will they still fit? & if using POR it will have to be left off the top castor adjusting thread as you say its so tough & cannot be removed......will have to make a decision soon...any more thoughts anyone......what have you used.........Thanks Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5
Well for the record I had all the suspension components
blasted. Then theywere rubbed down epoxy primed and
then two pack painted in colour of choice.
Not everyones idea of correct But they are durable and a
quick wipe with a damp cloth they look good as new.
Dave C
blasted. Then theywere rubbed down epoxy primed and
then two pack painted in colour of choice.
Not everyones idea of correct But they are durable and a
quick wipe with a damp cloth they look good as new.
Dave C
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
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#6
I have finally decided to zinc plate my front suspension after originally planning to powder coat it. This is mainly because of concerns with reassembling powder coated components but also because of the final appearance. I have found a plater near me who was very helpful on the phone. He will zinc plate and passivate then apply a final finish (in a choice of colours). He claims that final rust resistance far exceeds cadmium plating although I don't know how good that was (is). Anyway, parts are blasted and I'm going to give it a try.
Angus
Angus
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#7
Angus
Would very interested in the results you get after this process as I am about to carry out the same job on my car and cannot seem to find a good plater is Essex
Regards
Would very interested in the results you get after this process as I am about to carry out the same job on my car and cannot seem to find a good plater is Essex
Regards
Pete V
1967 S1 2+2
1967 S1 2+2
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#8
Pete,
3 Plating companies in S Essex. Hockley Enterprises in Southend. There is also a Company on the Manor Trading Estate in Benfleet and one on Canvey. I have just taken my bumpers to Hockley Enterprises in Southend for Chrome plating, but when I was there could see that most plating processes were being done.
Mike
3 Plating companies in S Essex. Hockley Enterprises in Southend. There is also a Company on the Manor Trading Estate in Benfleet and one on Canvey. I have just taken my bumpers to Hockley Enterprises in Southend for Chrome plating, but when I was there could see that most plating processes were being done.
Mike
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#9
Pete, I'll let you know. It's going to be next week at the earliest, I'm out of Uk at moment
Angus
Angus
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#10
Hi Guys.......Also finaly decided on zinc plating....after chatting to the guys at CMC......they finnish the parts with a hard clear wax,,,found one that Dinatrol make......parts are at the platers (Reddich plating co) & should be back this week......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#11
I think it's the way to go with E Type suspension...it's so much on display with the bonnet up!
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#12
What was the dintrol wax out of interest?
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
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#13
Dinirol 4010: http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/rust_preventi ... _oils.aspx Can be sprayed over the engine as well.
Characteristics:
? Transparent Beige
? Engine protection
? High temperature resistant
? High adhesion
? UV-detectable version available
? Long term - permanent
Applications:
DINITROL 4010 leaves a hard, transparent film that is resistant to both alkali and acids.
DINITROL 4010 is heat resistant up to a temperature of more than 200?C.
DINITROL 4010 has a shiny and clean film which facilitates a visual inspection of metal
surfaces, reading of labels and numbers etc.
The adhesion and flexibility on rubber and plastic parts at both low and high temperatures
are very good.
Appropriate parts to be treated with DINITROL 4010 are engine compartments, engines
and other parts which have to withstand high temperatures.
Method of use:
DINITROL 4010 should be applied on a clean, dry surface.
High or low pressure equipment can be used, airless or airmix.
Application temperature between 15 − 30?C.
Product hardness, flexibility and adhesion increases at higher drying temperatures.
Characteristics:
? Transparent Beige
? Engine protection
? High temperature resistant
? High adhesion
? UV-detectable version available
? Long term - permanent
Applications:
DINITROL 4010 leaves a hard, transparent film that is resistant to both alkali and acids.
DINITROL 4010 is heat resistant up to a temperature of more than 200?C.
DINITROL 4010 has a shiny and clean film which facilitates a visual inspection of metal
surfaces, reading of labels and numbers etc.
The adhesion and flexibility on rubber and plastic parts at both low and high temperatures
are very good.
Appropriate parts to be treated with DINITROL 4010 are engine compartments, engines
and other parts which have to withstand high temperatures.
Method of use:
DINITROL 4010 should be applied on a clean, dry surface.
High or low pressure equipment can be used, airless or airmix.
Application temperature between 15 − 30?C.
Product hardness, flexibility and adhesion increases at higher drying temperatures.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#14
Hi,
I have removed my front suspension components and would like to get them plated. I have seen one firm on the web that does 'duplex nickel' plating which is a combination of bright and dull plating, sounds good and looks great in the picture but is around twice the price of bright zinc plating. At the moment I am tending toward the BZP as most seem happy with this finish and it is cost effective. Does anyone have any experience of plating companies in the South East?
Thanks,
David
I have removed my front suspension components and would like to get them plated. I have seen one firm on the web that does 'duplex nickel' plating which is a combination of bright and dull plating, sounds good and looks great in the picture but is around twice the price of bright zinc plating. At the moment I am tending toward the BZP as most seem happy with this finish and it is cost effective. Does anyone have any experience of plating companies in the South East?
Thanks,
David
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#15
Further to my comments last February on the previous page, I used a company in Beckenham called Fox Plating. They offer all sorts of metal finishes but after a visit I opted for zinc plating followed by a treatment they do called "JS 500". I was told that the 500 refers to hours in a salt water environment before rust shows but I'm sure someone will have more accurate information. Anyway, I am really pleased with the results.
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#16
I mentioned they do all sorts of finishes. I had a lot of satin chrome done on various bits, throttle linkages and so on. They also have a large polishing room so I got a bit carried away with everything aluminium. Not sure if I'm allowed to advertise here but there's no gain to me, I'm just a happy customer. Call Steve on 02086636444. He's a really helpful guy but very busy so be prepared to hold the line!
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#17
Angus,
Thanks for your reply.
Beckenham very close by so I will definitely try them.
The components look really good in your photo.
Did you have to get them blasted before supplying them or can they do that?
It looks like you got all the nuts, bolts and washers plated as well.
I was thinking of replacing them as it doesn't look too expensive to buy new ones.
The aluminium parts look great too. I am also planning to rebuild the carbs this winter so I may well get them to do some other work.
Thanks
David
Thanks for your reply.
Beckenham very close by so I will definitely try them.
The components look really good in your photo.
Did you have to get them blasted before supplying them or can they do that?
It looks like you got all the nuts, bolts and washers plated as well.
I was thinking of replacing them as it doesn't look too expensive to buy new ones.
The aluminium parts look great too. I am also planning to rebuild the carbs this winter so I may well get them to do some other work.
Thanks
David
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#18
David,
I had all suspension parts shot blasted elsewhere first, not sure if Fox Plating have a cabinet. Old bolts left in only to protect threads. I replaced all nuts & bolts but reused most of the large washers on wishbones as they were in good shape.
Angus
I had all suspension parts shot blasted elsewhere first, not sure if Fox Plating have a cabinet. Old bolts left in only to protect threads. I replaced all nuts & bolts but reused most of the large washers on wishbones as they were in good shape.
Angus
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