Just stumbled across this:
http://etypefabsus.com/index_files/brakes.htm
not on the UK site...
E-type fabs rear brake kit
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Mountain King
Topic author - Posts: 96
- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:22 pm
#2
Wow, very expensive.
Rob Beere sell a rear vented disc kit for around ?600 which doesn't include the handbrake part and Ken Watson also sell a similar version for around ?420.
Both the above use overhauled S2 calipers.
Dave
Rob Beere sell a rear vented disc kit for around ?600 which doesn't include the handbrake part and Ken Watson also sell a similar version for around ?420.
Both the above use overhauled S2 calipers.
Dave
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#3
You should never need vented discs on an e type for normal road use. Rear vented kit? Really??
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047
61 OTS 875047
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#4
Dear Angus,
The reason why you might want them is because overheating leading to oil leaks out of the differential - a common problem for cars with inboard brakes.
When the diff leaks, the oil migrates along the output shafts and spreads a fine misting onto the rotor faces facing the diff. Eventually, you'll notice the very uneven pad wear on the rear brakes whereby the outboard facing rotor faces/pads do all of the braking.
With the vented discs, if the same happens the oil migrates down the halfshafts and ends up being expelled down and out of the vents - leaving both of the inboard facing rotor faces free of oil as they should be. Pad wear should be equal and braking should be maintained at its original level, so the "upgrade" is that there may not be a downgrade, were the system to have already deteriorated.
It's a bit of a chicken and egg problem working out why the diff output shaft seals leak in the first place, but essentially I agree with you regarding whether this is "needed" and spending ?420-600 unnecessarily seems foolish to say the least.
kind regards
Marek
The reason why you might want them is because overheating leading to oil leaks out of the differential - a common problem for cars with inboard brakes.
When the diff leaks, the oil migrates along the output shafts and spreads a fine misting onto the rotor faces facing the diff. Eventually, you'll notice the very uneven pad wear on the rear brakes whereby the outboard facing rotor faces/pads do all of the braking.
With the vented discs, if the same happens the oil migrates down the halfshafts and ends up being expelled down and out of the vents - leaving both of the inboard facing rotor faces free of oil as they should be. Pad wear should be equal and braking should be maintained at its original level, so the "upgrade" is that there may not be a downgrade, were the system to have already deteriorated.
It's a bit of a chicken and egg problem working out why the diff output shaft seals leak in the first place, but essentially I agree with you regarding whether this is "needed" and spending ?420-600 unnecessarily seems foolish to say the least.
kind regards
Marek
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#5
Marek,
It's still a bit better than spending ?1170 on the same thing though :D It's an upgrade I fancy doing for no other reson that I fancy doing it.
Dave
It's still a bit better than spending ?1170 on the same thing though :D It's an upgrade I fancy doing for no other reson that I fancy doing it.
Dave
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#6
Dear Dave,
If you are so inclined, you can probably do this yourself far cheaper.
You need one pair of vented discs - crucially the mounting surface thickness has to be the same as the ones on the old discs you asre removing - this preserves your rear camber settings.
You need to split the rear calipers and insert two spacers per disc equal to the additional disc thickness. The calipers aren't joined internally so there is nothing stopping you doing this. The bolts used to keep the caliper halves together must be up to the task.
You need to make up two longer cross pipes to bridge the caliper halves.
If you have a s3, the cage is JUST big enough to take it; if you have an earlier etype, you will have to cut, bend back and reweld the front face of the cage by about 1cm-ish to not foul the calipers each side.
You need a wider brass fork on top of each handbrake caliper. An easier mod is to just insert a spring across te uppermost bolt holding them apart. This will keep the handbrake pads apart when they are not in use.
Lastly, you need to angle grind or file a sliver from the lowest inner part of the lower control arms or else they will contact the wider discs as you go over a hump backed bridge.
Look for a vented rear set from an XJS race car second hand - which is how I did this and I paid ?65 for nearly new discs and calipers - a touch less than ?420 and I got all new brake pipes into the bargain. I sold my old brake discs and calipers at Stoneleigh for ?50, so my total costs were about ?15 plus some legwork, plus a plate of chips for Peter Crespin when he delivered them all to a mutually agreeable greasy spoon rendezvous at the Ace cafe. Happy days!
One last tip - if you are contemplating this - you are probably doing a refurbishment of the IRS and last I looked, Martin Robey had stainless steel pistons in their catalogue at just 50p more than the standard ones.
Photos are on the Jag-lovers site under the moniker "MarekH".
kind regards
Marek
If you are so inclined, you can probably do this yourself far cheaper.
You need one pair of vented discs - crucially the mounting surface thickness has to be the same as the ones on the old discs you asre removing - this preserves your rear camber settings.
You need to split the rear calipers and insert two spacers per disc equal to the additional disc thickness. The calipers aren't joined internally so there is nothing stopping you doing this. The bolts used to keep the caliper halves together must be up to the task.
You need to make up two longer cross pipes to bridge the caliper halves.
If you have a s3, the cage is JUST big enough to take it; if you have an earlier etype, you will have to cut, bend back and reweld the front face of the cage by about 1cm-ish to not foul the calipers each side.
You need a wider brass fork on top of each handbrake caliper. An easier mod is to just insert a spring across te uppermost bolt holding them apart. This will keep the handbrake pads apart when they are not in use.
Lastly, you need to angle grind or file a sliver from the lowest inner part of the lower control arms or else they will contact the wider discs as you go over a hump backed bridge.
Look for a vented rear set from an XJS race car second hand - which is how I did this and I paid ?65 for nearly new discs and calipers - a touch less than ?420 and I got all new brake pipes into the bargain. I sold my old brake discs and calipers at Stoneleigh for ?50, so my total costs were about ?15 plus some legwork, plus a plate of chips for Peter Crespin when he delivered them all to a mutually agreeable greasy spoon rendezvous at the Ace cafe. Happy days!
One last tip - if you are contemplating this - you are probably doing a refurbishment of the IRS and last I looked, Martin Robey had stainless steel pistons in their catalogue at just 50p more than the standard ones.
Photos are on the Jag-lovers site under the moniker "MarekH".
kind regards
Marek
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