Final T5 jigsaw piece

[lyons]

Tremec T5 gearbox being bolted to 4.2 bellhousing but need advice on clutch slave cylinder.

I have in my spares box a new slave C21470 (non-hydrostatic) with a new 100m push rod C23531, so can someone who has already fitted this or another combination let me know what you used and did it all work with good clearances etc as having to remove engine and box to cure a fault is not a road I fancy going down.

Thank you

[mgcjag]

I would fit the bell houseing /slave cylinder to the engine and check the position of the fork/release bearing against the clutch cover...befor installing into the car......ideally you want the end of the fork where it meets the push rod to sit in the middle of the bell houseing opening to ensure enough travel to operate the clutch.....there are several different thrust bearing all looking very similar untill you look closely. ....make sure yours is correct ...are you fitting an external return spring to the slave.....Steve

[lyons]

Steve,
Thanks for reply.

I have now found in my parts box a new clutch release bearing C235752, which I think is the correct one.

However, I think the rod I have will be to long as parts books state 80mm rod C9798 and need to know whether I need to order this to make it all work.

Part number confirmation on Tremec T5 fit would be really usefull.

Thanks

[mgcjag]

The gearbox shouldnt make any difference.....what needs to be taken into consideration is what flywheel you have (has it been skimed)..what clutch cover (they do differ) the clutch plate(can differ in thickness) release bearing and clutch fork........thats why im suggesting you have a trial set up.......you cant just assume that someone else with the same T5 has all the other parts the same as yours....Steve

Edit....just to add befor you bolt the bellhousing to the gearbox check that the clutch fork can move fully rearwards in its slot....sometimes adaptor plates can restrict full movement

[abowie]

I don't know how you've attached the T5 box to the bell housing so I can't visualise how it all might work. Did you use an adapter plate?

Logically though as long as what you have done positions the gearbox input shaft centrally and at the correct depth for it to fit into the spigot bearing and mesh onto the friction plate, the gearbox itself shouldn't affect the clutch mechanism at all.

If you have used a genuine 4.2 bell housing the standard clutch slave ought to fit as you're using the standard geometry and mounting points. Similarly the push rod dimensions shouldn't change.

Again, if you have the standard bell, clutch unit and clutch fork all of the geometry should remain the same. So you should be able to use all of the standard bits, including the correct thrust bearing for the standard clutch.

In the T5 kits all they usually provide you with is a different friction plate because the splines on the input shaft are different. It's dimensions are otherwise the same and you use it with the standard clutch pressure plate and thrust bearing.

As Steve says; you'll need to mock it all up on the assembled engine/gearbox and do a trial run. We do this as standard with all engine rebuilds.

[lyons]

Gents,
Thanks for all advice.

Bell housing is genuine Jaguar and friction plate came with the box as it has 13 splines.

Will attach Tremec mounting plate and give it all a trial run with E type standard diaphragm pressure plate and see what happens.


Thanks all

[PeterCrespin]

As Steve said, the T5 adapter plate can (and often does) foul the standard release fork before the end of its stroke. This happens most often with T5 conversions because that box is so wide in the upper front area where the top bolts attach. It's a PITA to rasp away the alloy plate to make a notch in the adapter if it doesn't have one, but apart from the graft involved and the checking (which can be done on the loose bell so long as the fork is fitted) it's not difficult to do. While you're at it, try trimming the side lugs for the top mounts. Even a quarter inch or an eighth off can make the difference between an occasional clonk against the tunnel sides, which are very tight at the front. The Jag box, the Guy Broad box. Uryk's and I believe the Toyota Supra boxes are much narrower at the front.

[Series1 Stu]

Good advice, Pete

I had my transmission tunnel widened about 3/4" whilst undergoing prep and paint as I knew I would be using a T5. It was Derek Watson's suggestion. Probably a good idea but then you need to modify the gearbox cover as well, which I did but i think I might find somebody to make me a new one in aluminium. Any takers?

Regards