Can anyone recommend a good ‘how-to’ video on brake bleeding. Preferably for a 66 s1 FHC?
Thanks
Bleed Video?
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mystery type
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#2 Re: Bleed Video?
Hi dad, plenty of videos on YouTube some even on the e type, haven’t watched them so don’t know if they’re any good, but you might pick up some tips.
Paul 1967 S1 2+2
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#3 Re: Bleed Video?
It's a simple process, but you do need to understand what you're doing. Because if you don't you could end up with a car with no brakes.
If you're doing it as part of maintenance on a running car the point is to replace all the fluid in the system with new fluid.
If it's because you've installed new cylinders, its to remove all the air from the system.
Firstly, you only open a bleed nipple with the brakes pressurised, and close it before the foot comes off the pedal. If not you risk sucking air into the system, and no brakes.
Secondly, you need to keep a close eye on the reservoir(s) and top them up. If you get air in from the top, no brakes.
Thirdly you always bleed the caliper furthest from the master cylinder, then the second furthest, etc , until you're finished. This way no pockets of air can remain in the system.
With the E type, the rear bleeders are hard to access. You will need to remove the front of the 2 rear shock absorbers on each side to have access to the nipple. This is not difficult at all but if you don't do it you'll struggle.
Good luck!
If you're doing it as part of maintenance on a running car the point is to replace all the fluid in the system with new fluid.
If it's because you've installed new cylinders, its to remove all the air from the system.
Firstly, you only open a bleed nipple with the brakes pressurised, and close it before the foot comes off the pedal. If not you risk sucking air into the system, and no brakes.
Secondly, you need to keep a close eye on the reservoir(s) and top them up. If you get air in from the top, no brakes.
Thirdly you always bleed the caliper furthest from the master cylinder, then the second furthest, etc , until you're finished. This way no pockets of air can remain in the system.
With the E type, the rear bleeders are hard to access. You will need to remove the front of the 2 rear shock absorbers on each side to have access to the nipple. This is not difficult at all but if you don't do it you'll struggle.
Good luck!
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1979 MGB (supercharged).
Adelaide, Australia
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#4 Re: Bleed Video?
Hi...here is one of your old posts from a few years ago re bleeding brakes.....what problems are you haveing...Steve viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5889&p=41660#p41660
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5 Re: Bleed Video?
Yes - have done this before and asked about it but the main reason I’m asking now is literally *because* there seems to be many different opinions and options about how to do it properly, I was hoping someone might know of a relatively ‘definitive’ video that sort of benchmarks the process. Not asking for anyone to do anything, as such, more of a passing ‘would anyone happen to know’-type question.
1966 s1 FHC 4.2
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