chain adjustment - tool or no tool...

[JD-JAG66]

that's not really the question.
My engine has the rattling noise at start up idling rpm, which goes away at higher rpm. From information on this forum, I seems like I need to adjust the chain.
Browsing the forum, it looks like a good idea to buy the tool (SBS1265) to make the job easier.
However, having removed the cover and pushed in the pin that keeps the dented wheel in place, I cannot get the pin to go "behind" the dented wheel. It always gets stuck flush with the dented wheel.
I tried hammering it in with some long screwdriver, but to no avail. The marks on the pin that you can see in the picture are from the screwdriver.
Of course it is possibile that some dirt will have accumulated behind the pin, blocking it flush with the dented wheel.
Reading about wiggling out the pin with some plyers, after putting a rag so that the spring does not disappear inside the engine, seems like an option, but I am not very keen to go this way.
So question, is it "normal" that the pin gets stuck flush with the dented wheel and that the tool is there to assist with pushing in a reluctant pin?
Or the fact that the pin got stuck means that I have no option to remove it and clean the opening before reassembling everything?
Cheers
Jan

[mgcjag]

Hi Jan....first thing..throw away your hammer....it shouldnt be need in the engine......slacken the center locknut...then with a pair of long nose pliers positioned in the 2 holes in the toothed adjuster just move the adjuster slightly either way.....and push the plunger in.......look carfully at the plunger it isnt toothed all the way and only needs to be pushed in far enough for the teeth to disengage. .....Steve

[JD-JAG66]

Cheers!
Just went to take a picture and could confirm that the plunger isn't dented all the way.
Will have a go at setting up the tension next week.
Again, thanks!

[abowie]

As Steve says the adjuster is under tension and this holds the plunger quite firmly.

If you buy the correct adjuster tool it has a widened section of the flange that will push the plunger down while you tighten it.

If you do end up needing to remove the adjuster and plunger to clean them be aware that there is a spring behind the plunger. You need to be incredibly careful you don't lose any parts into the crankcase.

[christopher storey]

You need to be incredibly careful you don't lose any parts into the crankcase.

Indeed '..... the best way to prevent loss down into the sump is to stuff a non-fluffy rag underneath where you are working so that even if you do drop the spring etc you should be able to pick it off the rag