CARBURETTOR REMOVAL

[RogerM]

One job on the annual service is to get the choke to work; a problem for the last couple of years.
Detailed inspection identified the brass fast idle pushrod on the front carb totally seized. The workshop manual states "all moving parts of the throttle linkage should be lubricated, ESPECIALLY THE BRASS FAST IDLE ROD". !! I have freed the pushrod by gently tapping the top of it.
Decided to remove the SUs and give them a full overhaul, but how on earth do you remove the bottom rear nut on the back SU, access is restricted by the pedal box and wiper motor?
Does anyone have any suggestions or a specially fabricated spanner?

[mgcjag]

A small child in the tool box is very usefull....failing that pull out the distributor or remove the cap for more room. to get your arm in there....Steve

[abowie]

It's actually a lot easier to remove the inlet manifold.

https://projectetype.com/index.php/the- ... ck-on.html

[bitsobrits]

I wouldn’t disturb the manifold to cylinder head gasket, as it requires draining the coolant. I’ve never had an issue removing the carbs individually on the three triple carbed E types I’ve owned, but my cars were LHD. For the more difficult lower nuts I access them by approaching from the front once the distributor cap and rotor are removed, as suggested by mgcjag. Also very helpful to have the air cleaner assembly completely removed.

On my current S1, I replaced the carb retention nuts with reduced head 12 point flange nuts to facilitate access and shorter wrench throws.

[Simonpfhc]

Just as Andrew said, I’ve always drained some coolant and removed the whole inlet/carb assembly. Done this many times and never had any issues.

[tim wood]

It’s difficult but not impossible to access the carb nuts using a variety of spanner’s / sockets.
Whilst I agree that access to the manifold fixings is less restricted you then have the issue of actually getting the manifold free. As has been found many times these can be a right bugger to free off. Stories of blocks of wood and clout hammers!

Once you have fixed the carbs you then are faced with fitting the manifold . A straightforward job but once again many tales of coolant finding its way into the carb throats or seeping from the head joint.

If it was mine I would persevere with finding away to remove the carburettors and suffer scratches on my hands and arms and think long and hard before removing the manifold.

[Gfhug]

A small child in the tool box is very useful

Can you get them from eBay? And are they liable to VAT? So long as they are Victorian children, seen but not heard!

[caveman]

Roger, I have successfully done this a couple of times, with spanner’s, by removing the full air filter drum and accessing from under manifold.
I use ‘Stahlwille Open Box’ spanner’s as they have a slimmer profile and locate nicely than most. Once you get purchase and the nut moves you can spin off with fingers, if your threads allow. Larger hands may be an issue but it’s possible with patience. No need to go removing anything around distributor either as it’s at wrong end in this case. I also wouldn’t remove manifold unless you have reason to replace more items. Good luck.

[RogerM]

Thanks to everyone for your assistance.
Distributor, air filter box out. Bruised and scratched but succeeded reasonably easy removing and refitting.
A large selection of different shaped spanners is essential as well as an assistant to offer them up when one arm/hand is trapped behind the inlet manifold..
Roger

[tim wood]

Excellent.

[bitsobrits]

Knew you could do it!