Otter switch test

[Johnlowe]

Hi Marek and thank you.

I am getting 76 ohms between the two connectors you mention.
Cleaning the relay inside is that doable? How? The case is crimped on can it be easily removed? Is it not worth the bother, just buy a replacement?

Am I looking in the wrong place? Could it be the otter switch instead and how can I test that?

Cheers

John

[Johnlowe]

My apologies to everyone.
My relay has 4 connectors. One connector has two spades both going to the same point! I have been counting them as two separate connectors!
Again, apologies. This is a black art as far as I'm concerned!

Don't know where this leaves me but could I get a three connector relay and try that?

Will preserve. Am on a learning curve.

Thanks to all

John

[MarekH]

It probably helps to test things and see what works, rather than continue guessing.

For a 3 pin relay, use a small square 9v battery between the c2 and w1 terminals and listen for a click. When contacting, there should be zero resistance between c2 and c1 terminals and infinite resistance when not.

For a 5 pin relay, use a small square 9v battery between the w2 and w1 terminals and listen for a click. When contacting, there should be zero resistance between c2 and c1 terminals and infinite resistance when not.

It s very easy to uncrimp the can and clean the contacts inside.

kind regards
Marek

[caveman]

Hi John,
If you pull the single Black/Red (otter) wire off your relay and replace it with a short jumper cable to chassis. With ignition on, the fans should run. If not it's the otter switch not triggering the relay. This is the first thing I would do. You should hear the relay click too, if its a good relay.

[Johnlowe]

Thank you.

I will try that, Caveman! But I already know the relay clicks away when connecting and disconnecting the otter switch.
Is that proof the relay is ok?
As already stated connecting the otter switch two spade connectors with a wire doesn't bring on the fans.

I really am at a loss as you can tell.

My thoughts are to buy a new 3 connector relay and try that.

John

[caveman]

The relay clicking is a good sign but:
1. You may still have a faulty otter switch as connecting the otter switch wiring together is merely removing the otter switch from the equation. It does indicate that part of the switching circuit is good though.
2. With these two wires remaining attached, and ignition on, you now need to figure out why the fans don't run immediately. The relay clicking is good but you now need to see if the ignition 12v is moving across the relay.
3. On Green cable (terminal C2), put a test lamp on it and switch ignition on. You should get 12v input here.
Next, with ignition on, put test lamp on the W1 terminal (2 Green/Black) cables. You should see 12v output to fans here if relay internals are clean and good.
If relay is clicking but no 12v output, your relay is duff.

Hope this helps.

[caveman]

To test your otter switch. Have a look here, it saves me typing;
https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/e-type- ... t-it/99598

[MarekH]

To decide whether the relay is good, all you have to do is measure the c2 to c1 resistance when the relay is being activated using the PP9 battery and compare the answer to the resistance information posted in post #23 and report back the answer.

You can only diagnose the Otter switch if the water it is in is hot enough.

At the moment, from the information posted, we can determine that the fans work, the relay doesn't activate them (and we don't know why that is) and we know nothing about the state of the Otter switch.

kind regards
Marek