CARB BANJO WASHERS/HEADER TANK

[Stevemorris]

Hi all,

I have been speaking to Chris at Burlen re fuel leaks.

I fitted 6 new banjo washers (AUC 2141) which I purchased from SNGB. They leaked, I tightened them a bit, leak stopped. It's been too hot to go into the garage, but the last few days has been slightly cooler so I went in to do a bit. Started the car and the smell of fuel was strong, engine bay, Banjo bolts, again...

A bit more tightening, but felt like they were almost too tight...

Spoke to Burlen, thinking I will buy some washers from them instead of calling SNGB. His reply was "Oh they buy them from us".....

I asked him why it was leaking and he asked whether or not I had 'soaked' them prior to fitting? Apparently, after they are made they sit on a shelf, dry out, get sold to people like SNGB where they once again sit on a shelf, and dry out a bit more, you get the picture...

Chris suggested I soak them in light oil (3 in 1) overnight. So I did.

Problem cured.....

Second issue.

Ran the car for a while, up to temperature. Fan not cutting in. I kind of suspected this would be the case as I thought the otter switch would be faulty due to age and the fact they normally are... and was correct. Car reached about 90° and fan wouldn't cut in, removed wire and earthed it, fan came on, faulty otter...

I noticed a small leak on the header tank, so removed it tonight to take a closer look. More holes in it than a Swiss cheese once I started to poke around, so a new tank required.

I also tested the otter switch in the kettle, not working....So...

New otter switch required. I spoke to Burlen and they supply the long bulb one (mine had a short bulb otter in it, incorrect for my car) for £70 + VAT. I suspect I will get one from them.

Next thing is header tank.

I am going to be buying a new one, lots of options and suppliers, but what do you guys think? S/S? Standard steel? aluminium????

Any thoughts chaps??

Many thanks, Steve.

[Gfhug]

Steve, that’s useful info about the banjo washers. We learn every day.
You may find it better to separate your post’s topics then people will respond to them individually.

Geoff

[mgcjag]

Soaking the fibre washers has been mentioned many times here on the forum...and also how tight the nuts need to be and re tighten them a few times after fitting
.....search header tanks a few have fitted a curved type from Cambridge auto sports ..Steve viewtopic.php?f=7&t=20643&p=167758&hili ... ge#p167758

[bitsobrits]

Or just use copper or aluminum crush washers on the banjo bolts. No soaking required. Tighten once and you're done.

[40GT]

Take the otter apart and clean the contacts, re-test and it should be ok, I wouldn't just buy another until I knew why it wasn't working.

[TGN]

I bought an aluminium one from Radtec, powder coated in an appropriate grey finish.
I also specified it with a boss and modern temperature switch.

[Stevemorris]

Take the otter apart and clean the contacts, re-test and it should be ok, I wouldn't just buy another until I knew why it wasn't working.

Hi Sean,

I was hoping to be able to do that as it has worked for me in the past, but my otter wasn’t one that could be taken apart (no tabs) plus it was a short bulb version so technically incorrect. The new one I purchased from Burlen, is the tab type and long bulb.

Thanks, Steve.

[Stevemorris]

RE: Header Tank.

Thanks for the replies chaps. ok, here’s where I am.

I have a contact in Sherbourne who is a very good Aluminium welder. He repairs fuel tanks and is doing my Lita tank at the moment. I went to see him yesterday with the header tank to see if he could fashion an aluminium version. He didn’t see it as an issue, but wanted to know what the layout was inside. I have agreed to strip my original one carefully so he can see the pipe layout, and he can then make one. I quite like the idea of having one with a curved top, and he can of course do this.

I plan to take the old one apart and when I collect my Lita take it back to him to get some idea of costing. I’ll keep you all informed.

In the interim, I couldn’t see any other option but to buy a new steel one. I chose Martin Robeys version as from what i have read here and elsewhere they seem to have a slight edge re recommendations? I could have brazed the old one up but the more I poked it about the more holes appeared, and quite honestly couldn’t trust it…

Steve.

[bitsobrits]

Have you checked out the header tank from Cambridge Motorsport? It's a thing of beauty and can be ordered with choice of thermo switch bosses, and either polished or satin finished. I bought polished, but found it a bit blingy, so had it powder coated satin black.

https://tinyurl.com/Cambridge-Tank

[Stevemorris]

Thanks again, I like the look of the Cambridge one, I am with you on the colour as well!

I took the lid off the tank this morning, just to see how bad it was inside, it was horrific...

I can now see why the Otter switch on the 4.2 is a longer bulb type, it sits in the pipe that has flow when the stat opens/closes, thereby working more efficiently.

I can also see why they corrode.The roof of the tank never really gets immersed in water but will suffer condensation drips, and as a result will of course corrode like hell! I am considering trying somehow to coat the roof, but with what im not sure as yet...

My welder friend says he can make this no problem, Aluminium/brass/whatever I want, waiting for him to let me know how much first...

Meanwhile here's some photos to enjoy (or not!).

Best regards, Steve.