Evan’s classic cool 180.. waterless

[Paul bow]

Hi guys, have anyone used or got any views on the Evan’s classic 180 waterless system?
Although I’ve got the large ally rad twin fans etc and glycol based coolant along with a bottle or two of the redline water wetter it’s getting close in this weather to the red area on the gauge, when caught in traffic..
Hence looking for some advice on this product.
I believe that eagle use it in their cars, although no chance of getting that confirmed by them of course!
Any help much appreciated.

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul...have a couple of mates use it in their C type replicas it works well for them with no issues....you do need to be aware of its limitations so follow the instructions carefully....Steve

[Paul bow]

Thanks Steve.. I suppose the question is that is it better than what we have been using for the last 60 years ?
Any clue as to its limitations ?
Thank you

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul....first of your haveing overheating problems you should look for what's causing them.....standard coolant in a well sorted car should and does work perfectly well......Evans also works and the engine can get hotter without boiling over becaus of its higher boiling point....heat transfer is also better than water based so your operating tempetature could actually read higher....this isnt a good thing.....you need to remove all water from your system and flush with their prep liquid...befor filling with evans.....in the event of a leak you can top up with water but you then need start again and flush the entire system....plenty of info on the forum or Google.....personally if you engins getting to hot there is a reason and it needs looking at.....Basicslly Evans does not make your engine run cooler ...Steve

[Gfhug]

And as I’ve had to point out before, Evans used to (maybe still do) claim that Rolls Royce Merlins ran on pure glycol, which is absolute twaddle! They ran 50/50 glycol water mix. It was actually found the Merlin ran better on this mix.

Geoff

[Paul bow]

Thanks guys..
The engine doesn’t overheat but it’s certainly if the gauges can be believed in traffic in +30C heat getting hot. Between the L (normal) and the red on the gauge.
This E produces some high hp numbers which would also attribute to the heat.
The fans come in at 85, that’s via an ECU, as it has throttle bodies, I was wondering if this was the magical stuff to keep the needle to the L of normal in +30c heat and London traffic, probably clutching at straws I’ll stick with what I know.
I’ve just had the manifolds coated in the best product zircotec offer in ceramic coating. Apparently reducing under bonnet temp by 33%!!
Not cheap, but should help with temperatures somewhat.

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul an override switch for the fans for slow traffic is usefull....Steve

[Simon P]

Hi Paul an override switch for the fans for slow traffic is usefull....Steve

[MarekH]

If you have (for example) 82'c thermostats, you can't run cooler than 82'c under any scenario, ever.

Thanks to hysteresis and the finite time it takes for water to circulate in a feedback loop back to the thermostat, you could be anywhere in a 12'c range above the thermostat opening temperature and still have your radiator capping the temperature as per design.

You already have what sounds like an adequate cooling system. I'd ensure the air coming through the bonnet mouth is directed only through the radiator, i.e. the foam shrouding is fitted and then simply run the fans whenever you feel it is too hot. Running them permanently always adds to the cooling efficiency, even at motorway speeds.

If you get worried, you can always add cooling capacity by deploying the heater matrix.

If it gets critical, employ the "heatsoak post-shutdown on v12s" strategy, which I posted on jag-lovers.com but probably linked in here somewhere a few years ago. This basically uses a radiator full of cold water to cool the cylinder head. It worked for Andrew's blue etype when he pulled into Bicester with steam literally coming out of all of his coolant hoses.

kind regards
Marek

[RICHOT]

I’ve always used Castrol 4 Life in both my E Type and XK120 without any issues (plus a water wetting agent).
I also have my Kenlowe (took the original useless fan out) on manual control so that I can switch it on when I want, eg approaching a traffic jam etc.
But, as others have said, whatever coolant you use, it’s unlikely to make much difference to your running temperature.
Good luck

[tonyabacus]

Hello Paul
Does your car have a single or twin fan set up
Tony

[mgcjag]

Tony...the first post says "twin fans".....Steve

[Paul bow]

Hi guys…
So was back up London today hot(ish) day prob about 27C, car drives the 40 mins into town perfect, however by the time I’d had 25 mins of real slow stop starting I started to feel the dreaded brake bind on the front..
I have vented discs on this, heat shield and just spent £700 having the Hayward and Scott manifolds ceramic coated at zircotec to help with the heat soak.. to say I was disappointed was an underestimate!

Was sure that was going to help…

Albeit added another bottle of water wetter and with the new ceramic coating of the manifolds (reducing under bonnet heat by 30% (very doubtful)) and in that slow traffic we didn’t get above L on the temperature gauge, so that was a positive.

I’ll take on board meraks comment about the foam around the Radiator/bonnet area, I don’t have that, I will have it in a few days ! Thanks for the tip..

The brake pedal in the heat becomes hard as the brakes start to bind, I pulled over in pall mall lifted the bonnet 3 mins later was back driving again, clearly letting the heat out helped, I felt the servo which was red hot, u couldn’t leave your hand on it for more than a second or two, I carried on but could feel the drag slightly on release of the pedal.

Parked up for 30 mins went shopping and she was brand new again..
No issues..

Clearly it’s when things get hot, I’ve had the reaction valve apart piston out and red grease when this happened a few weeks ago.
Motorway and normal conditions, spirited driving it’s fine only when it’s very hot and slow traffic..
Any ideas of my next move?
Everything under the bonnet is new with probably 4k miles on the car since full resto..


Many thanks

[mgcjag]

So engine temp was ok....but under bonnet temp high....Tubular manifolds will get hotter than the cast as far as im aware......was your fams comming on?...manual switchable fan may help....and possibly larger heat shield to protect the servo.....Steve

[Paul bow]

Hi Steve..
Tubular manifolds I had ceramic coated last week thought that would help, I’m looking at fosseway heat shield it comes up higher than the one I have on at the moment, which stops about 1” below the engine frame.

Think I’ll try that, but upon looking at past posts I’m reading about the need for play in the master cylinder pushrod and brake pedal area, it’s a bit vague I mean how much play are we thinking?
I don’t believe the pushrod is adjustable?
Thanks

[mgcjag]

The plastic bearing in the master cylinder have been known to expand and get stiff in the bore....Worth looking at....Steve

[1954Etype]

What car are we talking about? If its a 4.2 then you have to have the heatshield fitted between the servo and exhaust downpipes otherwise the brakes will bind when the underbonnet temp gets too high. We've never needed to coat exhaust pipes or fill the system with anything other than blue antifreeze mix. Its always a good idea to check the actual temperature of the engine using hand held temp guage to compare with instruments.

[Paul bow]

Thanks guys and yes absolutely coating the manifolds was only because the tubular manifolds run hotter.
I’ll buy a different heat shield a larger one from fosseway and see if that helps and report back.
As mentioned the master cylinder and the reaction valve has been apart inspected and red rubber grease applied, I’m hoping it’s an easy fix with a new more appropriate heat shield.