Fuel tank renovation

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:35 pm

I am looking at my original tank and wondering what to do with it to save me the expense of a new fuel tank. It look really good but could do with cleaning and I guess checking for leaks. Can anyone recommend a process for this or better still, a company that will carry out this? thanks Andrew

265bhp · Post by **265bhp** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:00 pm

Andrew
Try the POR-15 products, available from Frost.co.UK

Proprietary tank cleaning and sealing kits, a marine clean to cleanse, metal ready to provide a zinc rich coating and a tank sealer to provide a durable permanent finish internally

Extremely good products including their POR-15 outer coatings

My 911 has had a renovated tank for the last 7 years and I did the etype recently, which although it will be years before that ones finished it will be fine to sit and wait to be filled with petrol...!

Regards
Jonathan

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:02 pm

I am quite a fan of the POR anti rust products and they do a tank sealer kit (POR15) which I used during my restoration. It dries with a hard resin like finish that is impervious to petrol. Pretty easy for anyone to use but I highly recommend using the tank cleaner first - its amazing how much old petrol deposits are in teh tank.

Frost sell it in the UK as do many other resellers.

http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-tank-sealer-473ml.html

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:54 am

thanks Guys, I have of course seen the POR stuff sold by Frost but never used any as yet. I guess with the fuel pump out I will need to make it fuel tight so the Marine Clean can be slopped around, but I am sure I can make a plate up for the aperture. Sounds good and a lot cheaper than buying a new tank, which will probably be even harder to fit than the original! thanks

osgii · Post by **osgii** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:24 am

Hey,

don't know if you read french, but I founded this a couple of weeks ago. I'll maybe try to use it on mine next month.

http://www.restom.net/traitements-reser ... it-134.htm

In the kit you have:

- A degreaser to prepare the tank
- A rust remover to repare the tank
- A protective resine to prevent leaks for 20 years and protect tank from inside

chrisvine · Post by **chrisvine** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:54 am

I'm at a similar stage with my tank and would be grateful for people's thoughts on the best way forward.

My original tank was more a patchwork of welded repairs so I decided to replace it. A few years ago, picked up an unused, 'barn stored' tank from an S1 owner who had purchased a S2 tank, with the breather pipes, by mistake. However they had already treated the tank with white coloured tank sealant.

Since then the sealant started to peal away from the tank in sheets. I suspect this was due to poor preparation.

I've tried to remove the old sealant with various paint strippers, POR-Strip and finally had it dipped by furniture restorers. This has removed all but the most stubbornly attached areas.

However the sealant has blocked the small breather pipes within the tank. As the ends aren't accessible due to the baffles, I'm not sure how I can unblock them. It's difficult to get anything small enough to fit down the pipes that's flexible but strong enough to push out the sealant and salvage the tank.

I was planning to re-treat the tank with the KBS Gold sealant but I'm having second thoughts.

Thanks,
Chris

71 V12 · Post by **71 V12** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:04 pm

The method I used to clean the rust out of my tank was gather up half a bucket of garden stones, washed the soil off them and swirled them inside the tank until all flakes of rust were removed.

It makes quite a racket and takes some elbow grease but very effective. Once completed rinse the tank out with water and dry with a airline. Obviously you want to ensure the tank is free of any moisture especially if the tank is being stored during restoration. Five years on the fuel filter remains clear of any rust deposits.

D COUPE · Post by **D COUPE** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:10 pm

Im sorry but if that was My tank I would replace. Just think
200 mile round trip starts coughing and spluttering. Whats the first
thing your going to think of.........Sorry but unless You can see everywhere inside it could be the cars achilles heal.

Just trying to be objective

Dave C

wol916 · Post by **wol916** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:20 pm

Andrew,
I have not tried this with the e-type tank yet but will be doing soon, my chosen method (as used on other tanks in the past). Place what we would call a slack handful of Granite chippings into the tank along with some water, seal all holes. Then strap the whole lot to the front of an electric cement mixer, leave while you go shopping etc. The neighbours love it

Doddsy333 · Post by **Doddsy333** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:44 pm

I was concerned about my tank and had it bead blasted to check for corrosion particularly around the sump. I took the view that if there was a problem I would prefer to find out now. All appeared good so this was then powder coated. My only possible regret is that I used a proprietary tank sealant and then had quite a job to unblock the vent lines. The sealant certainly seems to have stuck but having seen the previous posts I hope it stays in place. I have yet to refill the tank and get the car running so this maybe premature but the tank looks like new now.

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