Crankshaft front seal off center
#1 Crankshaft front seal off center
Hi All,
I'm currently restoring my 1970 S2 2+2 and I'm stuck with what seems to be a big problem.
When installing the timing cover with a new seal from a Payen gasket set, i noticed that the seal is not centered on the distance piece.There is a visible gap between the seal and the piece at the bottom while the lip at the top looks well compressed (may be too much) just like if the timing cover was too low. I have replaced all gaskets, seals and bearings.
The gap disappear when i fit the sump but there is a noticeable difference in the deflection of teh seal lip, top and bottom.
Did I do something wrong?
I'd like to avoid the expense of a Teflon seal :-)
Thanks to all!
I'm currently restoring my 1970 S2 2+2 and I'm stuck with what seems to be a big problem.
When installing the timing cover with a new seal from a Payen gasket set, i noticed that the seal is not centered on the distance piece.There is a visible gap between the seal and the piece at the bottom while the lip at the top looks well compressed (may be too much) just like if the timing cover was too low. I have replaced all gaskets, seals and bearings.
The gap disappear when i fit the sump but there is a noticeable difference in the deflection of teh seal lip, top and bottom.
Did I do something wrong?
I'd like to avoid the expense of a Teflon seal :-)
Thanks to all!
Alban
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
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#2
a few pictures
http://s358.photobucket.com/user/albanb ... Jag%20Seal
http://s358.photobucket.com/user/albanb ... Jag%20Seal
Alban
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
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PeterCrespin
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#3
The seal is rubber coated to seal round the periphery. That seal reauires pressure all around. If you only press the seal on one side, into fresh air on the opposite side, it is bound to move off centre.
You did well to spot the issue but provided the seal contacts the spacer all round and is not grossly off-centre with correct thickness sump gasket you should be OK. The single-lip Payen isn't quite as good as the fragile Teflon seal but it's adequate provided an eventual weep wouldn't eat you up inside....
You did well to spot the issue but provided the seal contacts the spacer all round and is not grossly off-centre with correct thickness sump gasket you should be OK. The single-lip Payen isn't quite as good as the fragile Teflon seal but it's adequate provided an eventual weep wouldn't eat you up inside....
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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#4
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the reassuring comment. You mentioned the sump gasket. The Payen one is relatively thick compared to the one that was on the engine before. That might be adding or even creating the issue. Since I have ruined the Payen one as I had to reopen the sump and timing cover as I forgot to unlock the valve timing chain tensioner (what a stupid and time wasting error!) I might go for a thinner sump gasket (paper type).
Thanks for the reassuring comment. You mentioned the sump gasket. The Payen one is relatively thick compared to the one that was on the engine before. That might be adding or even creating the issue. Since I have ruined the Payen one as I had to reopen the sump and timing cover as I forgot to unlock the valve timing chain tensioner (what a stupid and time wasting error!) I might go for a thinner sump gasket (paper type).
Alban
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
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KingRichard
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#5 Re: Crankshaft front seal off center
Hi,
My advice.
The teflon seal is one of the best upgrades there is. It is even one of Jaguars own upgrades if I'm correct. I had a small steady front seal leak (after rebuild). Very annoying in the first place, you want it leakfree, but more severe was that on a long trip the oil from the front seal dripped to the back of the car on my rear brakediscs. Failed on MOT.
SNG has al the neccesary parts for the upgrade.
Richard
My advice.
The teflon seal is one of the best upgrades there is. It is even one of Jaguars own upgrades if I'm correct. I had a small steady front seal leak (after rebuild). Very annoying in the first place, you want it leakfree, but more severe was that on a long trip the oil from the front seal dripped to the back of the car on my rear brakediscs. Failed on MOT.
SNG has al the neccesary parts for the upgrade.
Richard
fandeland wrote: I'd like to avoid the expense of a Teflon seal :-)
Thanks to all!
E-type series 2 2+2 RHD 1969
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#6
I finally managed to get a replacement seal and sump gaskets from SNG after battling with their customer service. I went for a regular but late model seal with the hard plastic ring on the front side of the seal. After installation and proper tightening of the sump, it looks in order. Will have to wait to fire up the engine and run the car to see if it is all leak free (maybe a dream!).
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help!
Alban
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
E-type S2 2+2, 3 Weber’s, O/D gearbox
Range Rover Classic 1987
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Moeregaard
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#7
As Richard says, the Teflon front seal is one of the best upgrades you can make. Jaguar finally got this one right in the '80s, when the last of the XK-powered XJ-6 cars were being made. Just be sure to follow the instructions that are included with the seal. As I recall, the oil slinger is removed permanently and the seal fitted without grease, as it needs to be kept wet. The first Teflon seal I installed didn't have directions, so I treated it as one would with any other oil seal and packed it with grease. A month later I left a nice trail leading from the street into my garage 
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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PeterCrespin
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#8
Huh? Says who? First I've ever heard of this and the factory didn't do it.Moeregaard wrote:I treated it as one would with any other oil seal and packed it with grease.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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Moeregaard
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- Location: Thousand Oaks, California

#9
I suppose "packed" was too strong a verb. Years ago, in one of my automotive manuals, an oil seal was defined as a "...seal lubricated by grease." While the original neoprene front main seals used by Jaguar (and others) were technically lubricated by engine oil, I always applied a small amount of grease to the lip so that the seal had some lubrication prior to engine oil making its way there. It has always worked. The point I was trying to make is that the Teflon seal is intended to be fitted without benefit of grease, but due to the lack of any written instructions with the first attempt, I went ahead and greased it prior to installation--resulting in a serious oil leak. Since replacing the front main seal involves removing the sump and timing-chain cover, I felt that relating my goof-up might prevent someone else having a similar experience.PeterCrespin wrote:Huh? Says who? First I've ever heard of this and the factory didn't do it.Moeregaard wrote:I treated it as one would with any other oil seal and packed it with grease.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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