Installing axle shaft seals - Is it possible?

[vrracing]

Trying to install the DIFFERENTIAL OUTPUT OIL SEAL 8436A* and they do not fit in my Type3 diff. I hollowed out the inside a pvc schedule 40 cap so that its inside edge cleared the inner lip and spring and was just inside the outside ring. But as I press it in (with a press) you can see the outside rubber on the seal bulging. I put a light coat of grease on the outside of the seal and the inside of the flange before I started.

SNG doesnt list an axle seal on the S2 type 3 page (only an o-ring #22 which isnt present on mine) so I called and they said I needed 8436A. The seals that were on there were 5/8" thick while the 8436As are 3/8".

What am I missing? (besides a second seal given one has died a twisted death! )

Thanks!

Jim

[JagWaugh]

Jim,

Forgive the insulting question, but are you sure that all of the old seal is out ot the bore? Sometimes the old metal ones snap and leave a thin ring in the bore.

Failing that, look up the part number of the seals you had (federal, ntn or whatever) and check the bore od they are suitable for, then measure your bore.

I normally go to a bearing shop for seals, they are almost always a standard size.

[mgcjag]

Hi Jim...i have a 69 S2 2+2.....had leaking o/p shafts......on stripping down it looked nothing like as in the Jaguar service manual.......had a copy of the SC parts catalogue that showed the 3rd type which was what i had......dont know if the diff is exactly the same but the 3rd type lookes the same as the diagrams in the S3 service manual have a look at them they show a great x sectional view
If you have a copy of the SC parts 6 cyl jag catalogue it explains the 3 types and has a diagram shownig the oil seals and the 3rd type as RTC 1216
The seal i got for the 3rd type was the S3 one...RTC 1216 which was the same as the one i had....SNG list that part but show 2 types different prices http://www.sngbarratt.com/PartSearchRes ... no=RTC1216

When i did mine i also replaced the bearings........are you..........

However having said all that....the diff still leaked.....removed it again and refitted new seals making sure as in the S3 instructions to leave the seal lip proud and re shim it correctly.......guess what it still leaks

Spoke to Alan Slawson, very well respected diff rebuilder.....he suggested just change out the complete o/p shaft and replace with xjs units incorperating the seals.....he explained that if you replace the o/p shaft bearings your replacements will not be correct as the original type bearing are no longer available and the replacements supplied are ont upto the job.....so only a few weeks ago i got new shafts from him....not fitted yet..
There is an o ring 12473 but this fits in the diff and when you.refit the o/p shaft the bearing slips into it ...............hope this helps

[politeperson]

My USA powerlock 69 3.54 FHC S2 had leaking output seals when I first got it.

I ordered the "correct" seals SNG? and they were the wrong size.

I ended up me measuring the size and got them off the shelf for a few quid at Anglia Bearings.

I did a few thousand miles and oil was going everywhere.

So I dropped the whole thing and slotted in an XJS 2.88 locker from some XJS breaker in Derbyshire. It cost £450.

The diff was clean, not leaking, no backlash so I left it alone and fitted it in the cradle and bunged it back in with new LSD oil.

It transformed the car into a road rocket and made me question why anyone would fit a 5 speed conversion.

And it is not leaking.

So that is what I would consider if I were you.

[vrracing]

Thanks all. Misery loves company! Ok, followups...

JagWaugh

No. There is absolutely no way there is any residual seal material. The 5/8" thick ones were rubber coated and came out without much difficulty. The bores are clean and beautiful with no weird ridges or other anomalies.

I have the old seals dont have a brand but say "Made in England" and 7554191. I may try a bearing shop. I'm pretty sure we have a Motion Industries in town.

Mgcjag

I'm familiar with the "usuals" but not with "SC parts".

RTC 1216 looks exactly like the ones I pulled out and if you zoom into the picture on SNG you can see the last of three numbers is 0.625 or 5/8" just like mine. And you can also see that 8436A is 2.750 OD (nice crisp photo) while RTC1216 is something like 2.687 (not as clear but that would 2 and 11/16 to 3 decimal places). Regardless, it has a smaller total OD! By George I think you've got it!

No, I'm not changing the bearings. It's a northern California car with 80k original miles and the bearings look and roll perfect. When they start making noise, dropping the rear (now all clean and painted) will be quick and easy. Seals die with age, bearings not so much, so my goal was to clean it, paint it and replace the perishables now and get on to the trunk (which is rust free). Except for the diff input (which was greasy-dirty, not wet) it didn't look like there was any leakage from the o/p shafts. Isn't it ironic that now there are no seals.

I'll have to look in the diff to see if I can find those o-rings. There weren't any when I pulled the o/p shafts but I didnt go digging around inside.

PolitePerson

Interesting idea. The machine shop couldn't break apart one of the hub assemblies and were afraid to put too much pressure and break the aluminum hub. So I figured when those bearings died, I would call Welsh and get a used one to rebuild. Your suggestion is in line with that but I bet the ratios allowed into the US where less "road rocket" and more "55 saves gas" and "give a hoot, don't pollute"!

Thanks all!

Jim