New alternator fitting

[rubyfloriley]

Hi
Just forward planning i intend to remove the air con unit as part of the LHD To RHD conversion and understand the alternator switches sides with a new bracket. What out put Alternator is standard for non air con cars.
I was recently shown a pic of an E type in flames attributed to it having been fitted with an alternator that had a very high output when the car was restored can this be correct?
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[Hugo]

I've just removed the air-con on mine. What a job! I have seen discussions on here about the dangers of fitting high-output alternators, but to set fire to a car, something would have to be drawing a massive amount of current - i.e. a dead short. If you already have that condition, it will catch fire even without the alternator running - just on the battery alone. My understanding is that the various circuits will just draw as much current as they require, and that requirement is not going to increase just by changing the alternator. If anything, a smaller alternator will tend to run hotter than a larger one.
These are just my thoughts and I am open to being contradicted, since my knowledge of electrics is limited and there may be something I'm missing.

[Heuer]

An E-Type with everything switched - lights, blower, engine fans etc - draws about 40 amps. The standard alternator was rated at 47 amps so fitting anything more powerful is pretty pointless. If you do go for a 100 amp or similar then some heavy duty wiring is required. Best way forward by far is to fit a Nippon Denso alternator which is small, light and does not require the generally unreliable 4TR regulator. Angus offers it on all his restorations/upgrades and you will find all the details on how to do it here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6668

Superb and you can forget/stop worrying about at least one part of E-Type ownership. Unfortunately the price in the UK has gone up to ~ £160 because of demand but you can buy one in the US for about £50 but postage and duty will need to be taken into account.

[Mikael B]

Only not covered and main difference between ac and non-ac alternator is the cooling fan. Since ac alternator is running "backwards" the fins of the fan is turned differently. You can buy a non-ac fan from the usual suppliers.
However the ac alternator fan is very difficult to source and can easily be sold.

[Hugo]

I believe the alternator itself will work either way? I have just removed a 'backwards' alternator as part of removing the a/c from my US import Series II.

[Mikael B]

Yes alternator can run either way only difference is the cooling fan. You can use existing alternator.

[Puddinhead]

The load determines the specific device load requirements. Just a few days ago I hooked up a large external truck battery to test out my '66 FHC (LHD) fuse panel and I noticed smoke coming from the heater box area, the B+ jump-start cable was touching the sill ! I had fried the original working Alternator 4TR. The battery is capable of outputting a lethal amount of current across a dead short. If I didn't see the smoke in time, the entire wiring system would have melted.

Regarding the fuse area, '66 FHC, I see of course the many 50 amp and 35 amp fuses, so a device that's non-functioning due to it's perhaps being shorted, I would hope a devise's fuse would open up (blow) and save the car. But in my case, the dead shorted battery B+ terminal across the sill area had no fuse to protect the car. Thus, if a car's battery somehow is shorted anywhere in the car, where is there IS NOT a fuse to protect it, will (if not quickly corrected) melt the car.

Anyone know who rebuilds the Alternator 4TR ?

Thanks,
Patrick
'66 FHC (LHD)

[Hugo]

Some years ago I brought a coach back from France - about to disembark at Dover & it wouldn't start. The ship's crew brought a booster trolley with a pair of booster cables - I threw the cables on the floor intending to climb underneath to hook them up directly to the starter, forgetting the floor was made of steel sheet :-(