Jack Point

David Oslo · Post by **David Oslo** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 1:12 pm

I would've thought that a 'weldor' had a decent set of panel beating dollies on hand. Although I do see that the forged base of a tow bar attachment would be a good stand-in for a toe dolly.

I wouldn't be worried about work-hardened the metal flange as long as you take it easy and don't over do it.

mike837go · Post by **mike837go** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 3:28 pm

As a matter of fact I do have several dollies and a nice selection of metal working hammers.

Holding a 3/4 pound piece of steel at eye level with my off hand while swinging a hammer with my lead hand proved very tiring and accomplished little.

Weldor or not, I am very lazy and take my comforts rather seriously. So an easier and more effective solution was devised.

I read a quote years ago, "You can bet it wasn't a workaholic that invented the TV remote."

It makes a rather pleasant life's philosophy.

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 3:39 pm

mike837go wrote:I cheated quite badly on straightening the flanges. The bonnet is off, the engine is out and the car is 5.5 feet in the air on my lift. Regular and duckbilled vice grips were used for the initial attack. Leaving the pliers set to lock just as the metal bent a bit. Then moving to the next section. Tighten redo both flanges. Repeate.

I then used two hose clamps to hold the shank of a 1.25" trailer hitch in the slot to act as a dolly to support hammering the flanges into something resembling "straight" and "flat".

It's far from perfect, but it's a heluva lot better than before.

Sounds perfectly OK to me. Done the same before now lying on my back with the car on jack stands. As long as it's better than when you started it's an improvement. That works fine for most things.

288gto · Post by **288gto** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 6:26 pm

A piece of round bar or a bolt with a slot cut in it will do it or an adjustable spanner. Work on the leading edge gradually deeper into the flange.

Simon

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:36 pm

288gto wrote:A piece of round bar or a bolt with a slot cut in it will do it or an adjustable spanner. Work on the leading edge gradually deeper into the flange.

Simon

The trick is to use a pair of adjustables, preferably big ones with wide jaws. That way you apply the bending exactly where it's needed by holding one steady, or tweaking them opposite ways, or altering the distance between them etc. Often little/no hammer work needed.

mooney1el · Post by **mooney1el** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 9:57 pm

I fear I have completely hyjacked this thread, forgive me please; but I will continue here once before starting a new thread.

Here is a photo of what I m up against on my '64 FHC. You can see the leading edge is acceptably straight, but the trailing edge is very damaged. There is little room for hammer and dolly work with the engine in place. I will try the other methods mentioned and see if I can make the edge respectable :)

BTW, you can also see that the radiator lower support is also bent, but I think I can straighten it when I have the radiator out for service.

288gto · Post by **288gto** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 11:13 pm

Richard,

Looking at that, you could try a G clamp and tighten it on to the damaged bit. You could even put a piece of flat bar either side and then the G clamp. Just clamp the damaged flange not across the whole frame.

Simon

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 11:45 pm

mooney1el wrote:Here is a photo of what I m up against on my '64 FHC. You can see the leading edge is acceptably straight, but the trailing edge is very damaged. There is little room for hammer and dolly work with the engine in place.

It's not THAT bad - I've seen a lot worse. The spot welds seem all to intact so the damage is cosmetic only. It's also invisible and it will not get worse if you fix a piece of hardwood in place as discussed.

So you are left with cosmetics. If you get the right size slab of steel, or even a close-fitting square thick-walled tube instead of hardwood, it will support the inside of the flange while you dress it more or less flat with a hammer. You won't get huge improvements because it's not terrible now, but you will get the edges straight and flatter. After that I would just wire brush the area and put some protective paint on it, then wax the frame inside.

mooney1el · Post by **mooney1el** » Mon Jan 12, 2015 9:49 pm

Thank you all for the advice and encouragement. I have now "straightened" the trailing flange using a steel backing bar and vice grips. No room for any serious hammer work. To close the loop, here is a picture of the straightened flange.

I will touch-up paint later and today I made a wooden block which will be strapped in place forevermore. I gave the new block a coat of urethane spar varnish :)

mike837go · Post by **mike837go** » Tue Jan 13, 2015 3:06 pm

Looks nice.

Now where's the properly secured, varnished hardwood?

mooney1el · Post by **mooney1el** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 10:05 pm

Had to wait for the paint and varnish to dry :)

mike837go · Post by **mike837go** » Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:08 am

Gorgeous!

Absolutely perfect.

Running the straps through the wood, rather than around, is quite inspired.

Mind if I swipe the design?

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Fri Jan 16, 2015 8:31 pm

PeterCrespin wrote:I prefer hardwood as it is less prone to sideways skidding metal-to-metal, but ANYTHING is better than jacking on the edges of the picture frame.

Meanwhile, even jacking and crumpling the bottom of the picture frame is better than jacking under the radiator support and putting two upward dents on the bonnet...

My brother in law had exactly this happen to him. He was given short shrift by the MOT man when he told him where to jack. The chap sent him packing and said he knew very well how to jack an E Type as he had done it dozens of times. 30 seconds later , a ruined bonnet which still has the dents 30 years later . My brother in law is a lawyer so he Now has a brand new bonnet in a box which he will fit one day!! :D

paulsco · Post by **paulsco** » Fri Jan 16, 2015 10:13 pm

A good way of reshaping bent flanges is with a Joggler panel flanging tool.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/35088086 ... 0&ff14=108

If you use the area just ahead of the step on the tool, there is an awful lot of clamping power. I used this method on my restoration to straighten the edge of flanges.
Especially useful if there is very little room for a dolly.

The picture frame on mine was bent from careless jacking and on the top from I assume careless engine removal, so I removed the bottom spot welded on panel from the picture frame, which made the U section much easier to straighten, I then made up a bottom panel and spot welded it back on.
Obviously much easier with the picture frame off the car.

Paul

mike837go · Post by **mike837go** » Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:11 am

Obviously much easier with the picture frame off the car.

I dunno, with the bonnet, engine and radiator removed. And the car on a lift there was plenty of room to pound on the frame flanges. ;-)

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