123 Distributor.

[Mark Gordon]

I would suggest running a separate line from the + terminal post (located on the body just behind the battery; the positive cable from the battery connects to it). That way, a failure in one of the other nonessential components (i.e. fan or horn relay) doesn't leave you stranded. You could always put in an in line fuse as added protection.

[iani]

Thanks Mark, I was seeking to minimise the cable run but this makes sense and will obviously work. Thanks

Ian

[iani]

I fitted my 123 today, I couldn't get the car to fire when I ran the + feed from the fan relay, I decided to try it with the wiring as per the supplied instructions and all was well. I have used Richard Brand's S2 curve for now, the car sounds a lot smoother than before but I still have some pinking. Does anyone have any curves, suitable for a standard car, that they would be willing to share? The 123 forum doesn't seem to be available anymore, indeed, the whole 123 website seems to be down now.

Ian

[KingRichard]

Hi Ian,
The curve I use is made from the data from the manual, after reading many threads,a lso the EDIS thread. As with 123 dizzy you should have your timing at 0 (zero) instead of 10 degrees.

http://www.richardbrand.nl/images/84.jpg

I remember I switched the white wires at the tacho as there is a fault in the new wiring I bought from SNG B. My tacho read correct with only 100 rpm deviation.

Regards,
Richard van den Brand

[iani]

Thanks Richard, I plugged the 123 into my laptop and saw that was idling at 11.4 degrees, I reduced this to 10 and haven't had any pinking in the 50 miles or so since. I am running with your 4.2 curve and so far it seems spot on, thanks.

Ian

[frogeater]

Alan : the series 1 tacho ( camshaft AC generator driven ) is wholly different from the S2 tacho which is ignition impulse driven . There are no problems, irrespective of ignition system, with camshaft driven tachos

Hello I have a 123 iginition fitted, and a serie 2 revcounter; I understand one possibility would be to put a series 1 revcounter: I have a rev counter from a mark2, 1960 in stock.
Do you think mark2 revcounter are the same than for e type?
(on sng barrat website, they seems to have a different references, but this add on ebay says there are identical: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-E-TYPE ... 269wt_1350)

[Heuer]

There is probably a different red line on the Mk2 tacho much like the difference between the S1 3.8 and 4.2 tach's, hence the different part numbers. Give it a try although you will need the camshaft generator as well. Also bear in mind the generator magnets get weaker over time which causes the tach to under read. So make sure you calibrate it against a digital tachometer so you know how much it is under reading so you don't over rev it. The repro generators have a habit of falling apart so try and source a good original.

I use the electronic tach board Dave Rawle designed and it is quite superb. They are no longer available but the diagram and layout is here if you know anyone who can make one up for you: http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=292

[iani]

My S2 rev counter is working fine with the 123 dizzy, it seems to be down to luck as to whether you have problems or not.

Ian

[frogeater]

Thank you very much for your answers, Heuer and Iani.
I will check this evening in my books, for the potential different red lines.
Emmanuel

[frogeater]

I just checked and the difference is on the red line like David wrote, beetween an e type 4,2 and a mark2 3,4 or 3,8..
The add from eBay is for a mark2.
I will see.....