Help Newbie turned a simple anti freeze job into a problem

Technical advice Q&A
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Mountain King
Posts: 96
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:22 pm

#21

Post by Mountain King » Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:19 pm

If you are getting only 8v at the relay, something is using up your power?
Have you put a multi meter across the relay to battery to check the resistance?
1973 Series 3 OTC

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rswift
Posts: 38
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2015 6:33 pm
Location: Bedfordshire UK
Great Britain

#22

Post by rswift » Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:23 pm

Well success I think, and a big thank you to everyone who helped me out.

Got the fans cutting in and out at temp several times, all showing correct temp, no water leaping out of anywhere. I've yet to do a long road test. I thought I would wait until my wife is at home.....with our Jeep and a long rope, just in case.

I think ultimately the culprit was the connector on the Horn relay, which must have got contaminated by coolant....the hose was split on the expansion tank overflow near the battery tray. The hose now replaced, and the battery tray, and below all dried/cleaned out.

My car (1970 Series 2, USA spec with air-con) appears to have the same wiring for the cooling fans as a Series 3 car, i.e. the main 12v power is shared from the horn relay constant supply (via the fuse in the dashboard).

As it's a permanent live, and close to the battery, I was thinking of a small mod to wire the fans to a closer 12v, and put an inline fuse in (I think it should have this anyway as those fans are quite power hungry)

I consider the fans more useful than Horns for 99.9% of the time, and would give me peace of mind, plus easy to return to original if anyone ever wanted to.

My otter switch seems to be working a treat, but I've stuck some WD40 on the bolts with a view to changing to a more modern cool-cat sender in the near future.

I've learned a lot, quite enjoyed fiddling about and now have a multimeter and several length of long wires/fuses to carry in the car.

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