The 5 Speed is here……..

[gtjoey]

[gtjoey]

[gtjoey]

[gtjoey]

[gtjoey]

We tried to see how close but
It was getting late and it needs to be tilted to get in place
So I’m tied up with parents and doctors and hospitals so I might need a good week break
Gtjoey
We shall see

[gtjoey]

The clutch and flywheel were balanced hence the blue paint so you didn’t move the two apart.
I’m at least 4 inches longer than the original box
It’s a two man job and must be angled in!
After my folks are settled we will get it in
Email away boys and girls!
Ps the speedo cable o greased before we put the retaining clip in
Gtjoey

[mgcjag]

Joey...your retaining clips on the clutch fork holding the thrust bearing still looks wrong to me....they should be pushed in more....whats stopping them....is it the hole in the thrust bearing or the recess in the fork......is it a repro fork?......Steve

[shovelled]

Hi GTJoey,

Nice to hear from you and keep that blog up!
You know, I had to check what a throw out bearing was!
So you mean a clutch release bearing.
Well no need for retention clips as I've got this little widget instead.



I'm not sure its worth the extra cost, but as its an auto to manual conversion, I didn't have the slave cylinder and clutch bearing release lever or the pivot pin. This solves it, but will be a pain to bleed, so will fit a remote bleeder.

Nice that Broad provide an instruction leaflet. Mine didn't come with even the torque setting for the clutch housing bolts, oh and I also had to cut them down myself. Given these are blind holes, its really key that they are not too long or they will try to press the adaptor plate off the gearbox casing. I think studs make more sense like on yours.

Cheers
Paul

[gtjoey]

Morning guys
The center hole post is longer on my originals and the retaining clip bent side was shorter.
If you push the clip all the ways down flush with the fork it can spin left and right
Where it is now it’s locked in place
It’s the original fork.
I love that hydraulic throw out bearing but I couldn’t find someone who makes it now with experience.
As my finger unswell I’m going to be taking care of my folks for a week or so
Clean up the barn
Then jump back on it!

It will be a trick from Below
Anyone have a trick to make it easy?
I can remove the crank pulley
That gains almost 2 inches
Gtjoey1314
It won’t just drop in its waaaaaaay too long compared to stock

[shovelled]

Well if you want one of those concentric throwout bearings, then here is one from RAM Clutches.

https://ramclutches.com/bearings/hydrau ... -bearings/

[gtjoey]

A little prep
Next flywheel inspection cover

[gtjoey]

Anyone have a suggestion on an angle?
We shall see

[mgcjag]

Is your prop shaft in?.....Steve

[gtjoey]

First thing I did if you go back in the thread.
Yeah forget that and your dead

[gtjoey]

I apologize I’m going to need two weeks tops
Just have a lot of veterans to take care of
Will post along the way

[gtjoey]

Did anyone put back the old sponge for sound deadening?
I never did even with the old box.
My theory was let cooler air flow around it an insulate in the car!
Anyone else have an idea?
It’s going to be so tight in there anyway

Gtjoey1314

[shovelled]

I will be putting the insulation back and replacing any that got damaged with new. I drove our S1 with a 31 deg C (87 deg F) in our limited but hot summer and the heat that was coming up via the hand brake opening was considerable. I think the gearbox oil is far better at coping with temperature than we are.

[Heuer]

Use something like Koolmat or Dynamat under the transmission tunnel. Both are thin and Dynamat has a reflective surface to resist convected heat (never understood why people put it inside the cockpit with the reflective surface visible!). My preference is Koolmat but whatever you can get at short notice - try a race car prep shop and get some with adhesive on one side. You will feel the difference with it in place on a warm summer's day.

[gtjoey]

Thank you
I have used Dynanat for 30 years
Just the best
Gtjoey1314

[Heuer]

Bonus is it will reduce noise. Check the various types of Dynamat. You want it to reflect radiant heat back to the source (gearbox) and reduce conducted heat via the body panels. I suggest the Dynamat Xtreme might be the one.