The 5 Speed is here……..

[bitsobrits]

I have mine sitting at 21 1/4 in the front and 21 rear and really like it there. The front end is especially improved by lowering that far as it gives you pure negative camber in roll on the outside tire as the control arms no longer go through the positive camber change at beginning of roll like the OEM setup.

[Series1 Stu]

The suspension drop had
NO effect on propshaft clearance or closeness to anything even with the almost 2 inch drop!

Why would it? The relationship between the gearbox and differential hasn't changed since both are pretty much attached to the bodywork. It's not a live axle!

Regards

[gtjoey]

Stu
After ALL this who knows!
It’s a Jag…..
Remember all the massaging and removals.
I’m at 21 3/4 at the rear and
22 3/4 ish up front
The Beeres front tortion bars are settling in
I’ll give it a good 4 weeks
Waiting for bits to close up the tunnel and dash
Anyone upgrade front and rear sway bars to complete this hot rod?
Gtjoey1314

[Series1 Stu]

Stu
After ALL this who knows!
Gtjoey1314

It's obvious if you stop and think about it. Your suspension mods haven't altered anything that affects the relationship of the gearbox output to the diff input.

[gtjoey]

Your a lot smarter my friend….
How’s your Etype been out and about lately
Things fall off a Jag that haven’t fallen off a Yugo
It’s part of the game, but remember I dropped Almost 2 inches so far at the rear and almost the same up front with MUCH bigger drive shaft and unjoint ends then the Mickey Mouse originals.
You just never know…..
It drives great though.
Almost done
Gtjoey1314

[gtjoey]

The microphone came in!
All done except for the last little speaker on the drivers side
Sure looks pretty and everything fits!
I finish the interior today and tomorrow
Glue everything up
Bought NEW upper gators for the upper control arms and tie rods as they ripped lowering the suspension.
Align the car and a FULL, FULL report
Ps I lowered the exhaust a hair, adjusted the back engine mount a haired, WD40 everything then regreased the suspension
Shocks all around are set at Number 2!
More pics to follow
When complete I will
Have 800 miles on this glorious transmission
Gtjoey1314

[Dal]

Does anyone notice the reduced suspension travel on jounce with it lowered 2”? Much easier to hit the bump stops.

[bitsobrits]

I've had my suspension lowered about 2" for the last 18 years and 20 some thousand miles. Have never hit the bump stops as far as I know, and never grounded the exhaust on the open road (just brushes on certain speed bumps).

I do have very slightly uprated torsion bars and rear springs (~10% stiffer than stock) which may be helping.

[gtjoey]

I agree with Bits…..
I used the Beeres torsion bar upgrade.
The Gaz springs are a different rate
So once you adjust to preferred ride height your good.
I like others don’t understand the bump stop issue?
I have 300,000 miles in Etypes most have had the bump stops cut out.
I never bottomed the exhaust
Maybe it’s me
Ps sway bars next
Beeres upgrade?
Gtjoey13-4

[Mich7920]

Isn't that Professor Xavier in his X Type in the rear view mirror?

[mgcjag]

Joey....you photos above look to me that the car is at normal ride height.......not lowered 2inches....so for clarity are we talking 2in lower than spec ride height......Steve

[gtjoey]

Yes
The ride height is now standard height
The reproduction coil springs from all the majors are sitting too high
I have 9,000 miles in a year and they still did not come down.
Here is my OLD series 2 with a complete rebuild with NOS springs from Johnny Farrell back in the day
They sat perfect

[gtjoey]

Here is my car 5 months ago
It looks good but that’s with a full tank and Gerry Duff at a cool 245
It’s way to high

[gtjoey]

It’s all done my friends……
A small list above which I will explain then the final
What to do and need……
I’m very Happy I did it!
I had to use the Guy Broad……
Before my next post and LAST on the 5 speed.
Tweeks to wrap it up
New upper ball joint and tie rod end boots as most ripped from many on and off to get the engine and transmission done!
Alignment as the car has been dropped and a slight sledge hammer tweek on the exhaust as the just touches the bigger torsion bar on the inside pipe
The 5 speed is so smooth that coming down to a light in 4Th it doesn’t even BUCK at 20 mph if you forget
5th gear creates a limitless top end as now 70/80/90
Are nothing at all
Heuer that means a throttle cable kit might be next along with Beeres sway bars!
Thanks to everyone….
It never really ends it just another step!
The other little stereo speaker is done but for another thread, it will all be covered in leather under the dash
Final thread next
Thanks everyone!
Gtjoey1314

[bitsobrits]

Joey,

Something to think about with your alignment: More caster improves self centering and increases camber gain when cornering. With your power steering, the small increasing in steering effort won't be noticed. I'm running 3 degrees caster (vs 2 stock) and increased negative camber in the front with my somewhat lowered car and really like what it did for medium speed sweepers in particular and just overall driving.

I'm also a fan of Terry's Jaguar front upper control arm shaft that allows fine adjustment of camber (without shims). And if your upper ball joints are less than perfect-SNG control arms with the nylon insert sockets are a nice upgrade that looks perfectly stock.

[gtjoey]

The Guy Broad 5 Speed Conversion
Wrap up…….
4.2 coupe E Type conversion.Series 1 1967.
Needed
1.The actual 5 speed box ,part of kit
2. A New prop Shaft , roughly 6 inches shorter.
You can cut your original but for the 600 dollars U.S.
It’s not worth it. New one balanced and all.
Not part of kit.
3.Speedo cable , part of kit.
4. Transmission mounting plate and mounts, part of kit.
5. 80/90 weight transmission fluid, 3 bottles ,Not part of kit. Non Synthetic.
6 . Clutch , Special to conversion , not stock, included.
7. Pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing , not included and ALL three are stock Etype parts.
8. Stock pilot bearing retained.
9 . Stock bell housing used and 1 bolt removed !
For fork clearance.
10. Stock Starter or Hi Torque can be used as per stock style flywheel.
11.Stock clutch slave is retained.
12 . Transmission breather pipe is deleted and not needed.
Fitting………
Once the engine and Transmission are removed,
1. Remove Prop shaft and put New one in place and secure to diff, if you forget this , everything has to be removed Engine/Transmission again!
2. Believe Me…..Inside tunnel E Brake support brace , roll forward and hammer flush against the inside tunnel.
3. Make sure Broad or CJ removes the excess MEAT under the tail housing NOT used for the E Type and….
4. As per instructions massage crossmember for the easiest install of the Engine/Transmission!
You will be totally clear if you do!
5 . Tunnel clip on drivers side to hold old heat shield to transmission , bend flat , ease for installation.
6. Follow my pictures and cut Upper Tunnel to make it ALOT easier for install.
7. E Brake curve and top tunnel cover MUST be massaged
There is no other way!
8. To install Engine/5 Speed remove water pump and ALL threads as the angle from below or top is very , very tight.
9. Stock rear engine stabilizer on firewall is retained.
10.once inline support transmission and use the dual rubber mounts and snug from
Top and below with help
11. Make sure Speedo cable is in transmission BEFORE you put everything back in!
12.The tunnel Top and drivers side is the hard work, go slow and measure 10 times!
13. Don’t cheat and cock the transmission to clear OR oblong the transmission holes , it’s not the right way.
14. The transmission needs a GOOD 300 to 400 miles to mesh and bed in.I now have 800 miles in 3 weeks and is now DEAD quiet.
15. Even the Hold down tunnel self tap screws should be shortened not to hit the sides of the box and not to squeak or knock,it’s that tight .
16. Have patience , all the stock bits of the interior WILL fit but you need to tweek, loosen or massage to bring it all together.
My overall thoughts are as follows ….
The 5 Speed transforms the car , from less revs to no leaks
It’s pure quality .
It can be done …….
If your not qualified or have the outlets for help, forget it!
Go to a REAL qualified shop
Is the 5 speed worth it?
If you drive like ME….
If you want a transmission that is 60 years newer than the original with modern build and quality ……
YES!
If your car is original and you think just a 5 speed is needed to keep up….
Forget it!
Buy a 2014 Bentley GTC coupe and retain the E Type for posterity.
I’m very glad I did it .
I am going in a different direction from my first E Type 30 plus years ago, it’s fun and reliable .
There are 70,000 E Types out there, investment is not my concern.
If your like me , DO IT!
You will never regret it!
I hope this helps someone in the future.
This was fun , the banter and ideas from all kept the last 3 months going till it was complete!
Thank You everyone.
Pm , text or call if you decide to do it!
Gtjoey1314

Enjoy the ride!




I will follow up with gears and RPM
At speed soon ….70 /60/50 and everything else
Thank you Steve I have the SNG control
Arms
Thank you again everyone

[DWW]

Thanks Joey, enjoyed very much accompanying you in your journey banter and all to achieve what I would never dare attempt myself

[gtjoey]

Thanks DWW….
I’m working with Kirk to post a video soon at driving speed and ratios!
Thanks again
I called Guy Broad and told them
I’ll call in 4 years when I do 100,000 miles on the new box
Gtjoey1314

[gtjoey]

Stu……I told you!
It’s very complicated but after I’d say 150 miles the pipes started hitting the new upgrade sway bar
So with my trusty tool gauge , cardboard and a screw driver
I loosened the exhaust nuts and moved the pipes a hair.
No Model A chug a chug
Can’t make it up
Gtjoey1314

[gtjoey]

Going to lunch with secretary
Then to under ground lair for final adjustments
Report back soon