The 'E' Type Forum

I've trawled the Forum to find lots of references to injecting box-sections, but there appears to be no centralised regrouping of what volumes you need to get at, and how you get to them.

There is a Dinitrol link to a sort of map but it appeared to be insufficiently detailed to be of any real help.

Once I've dug out all the "seam-sealer" that appears to have been a perfect incubator for festering but totally invisible "seam-rust", and which I will not be replacing, I am about to re-spray the cabin interior.

I remember a posting (that I now can't find) where someone had published an account of making the most of the post-painted-but-no-trim condition to do his wax injection.



Could anyone use Paint software or W.H.Y. on these pictures to add suggestions about which volumes I should be treating and through which holes I get at them, PLUS suggestions of extra orifices that I might drill in order to do the job more thoroughly ?



I have the requisite injection gun and compressor etc but have never done any deep-throat surgery on the main body and sills so am unfamiliar with the interior architecture of the shell.

It would be great if we could pool our collective knowledge into one set of pictures.

What ever you use, be it waxoyl or the many other anti rust preparations I would say inject as much as possible. If it is wax based it is best done on a warm day so it stays gloopy and runs into all the crevices. If you use a waxed based preparation Some say thin it a bit with white spirit. Others say not....and not if the car is painted or the white spirit will damage any paint that gets gloop on it. Waxoyl sprayed onto cold metal sets and does not stick well. On a hot day it works better although it is not perfect as I am sure others will tell you.

Thanks, Waxoyl thinned with white-spirit or used as-is has never had any effect on paint in the 40 years I've used it so I'm surprised you think that is an issue.

It's where to do it rather than how to do it ; with the Mini I had it on a spit and just pumped it into everywhere then rolled it around in the August sun and collected the excess on a plastic sheet - she still weeps in a most satisfactory way from some drain holes ........



And filled the rear doors with a funnel then shook them through 360° ! Not an option with a fully-assembled E-Type unfortunately .............

I used a cheap boroscope from E bay to check in all the cavities to make sure I had covered everything. It also gave a good indication of the route the injection head should take.



Simon

I'm a bit behind the curve here, with the delay, but for WIIW here are some shots I took whilst making the most of having the inside stripped out.

I make no pretence at being an expert of where to inject, as I couldn't find anything written to help understand where I was aiming for ; so I'm fully expecting plenty of advice-after-the-event from those who've had their sills changed and gutted, as seeing exactly how they are constructed would obviously have been a great help.

There are some neat 10mm plastic plugs available from Rustbusters

http://www.rust.co.uk/injection-plugs-m10/p405074

with a neat shoulder groove to retain them, I've always used these to bung up Waxoyl holes.

I didn't take quite the right pictures of where I ended up drilling, but here's one suitable one which shows where I thought it gave me good-enough access to the spaces behind the seats.



This shows the holes that seemed like obvious original candidates for injection,



and then I did a similar sort of spacing all along the sills, and on the cross-members, the holes are visible here, tho' this picture is out of sync as it was shot later after the interior had been repainted,



and with the sound-deadening put into place, as wax is a guaranteed way of making sure this doesn't stick.



The painting obviously took place before any wax-injection, at this point all my access holes were just left open.



Before the injection, I find it useful to block off ALL the injection points with masking tape - see below, white tape not a good idea on a white car, so hard to see ; but in this way the wax-fog stays inside the box-section and doesn't spray out through adjacent holes, and after each injection a bung-plug replaces the tape you've just removed.



I heat up the wax by sticking the can in 10 litres of almost-boiling water, sitting on a paella gas-ring, so it pulverises really easily and hopefully goes where it should.

It's a nasty, greasy and fume-laden job but feels strangely cathartic !



More holes visible here.



Once you start seeing this, it all feels like it might have been worthwhile.

I did an aircraft corrosion control course a long time ago when working on maritime patrol aircraft. What stayed with me was the revelation that no goo/goop/stuff/compound/chemical could be sprayed in and forgotten. They will all either harden up or dry out or lose effectiveness, and allow corrosive agents to penetrate. Despite what the advertisements say, they will all need to be re-applied regularly and if the goo is thick, it will bung up and plug the drain holes. I've used Rust-Check brand on my daily drivers for fourty years with excellent success. I tear the interior out of the car each summer and spray the bejesus out of the thing. It's messy, but has kept my cars rust free in horrid Canadian winters until the engines died. (Then some kid takes them to his place and dumps another engine in. My former 92 Accura Integra is still on the road with 700,000 Km on the body and on it's second drivetrain.). Most any decent penetrating oil will work; I'm now using FluidFilm because it's a bit cheaper. My Jag gets the same treatment but only every two or three years. I've drilled tiny holes in the picture frame rails just big enough to allow me to stick the tiny straw from a spray can in. I warm a can of RustCheck or FluidFilm in warm water, shake the excrement out of it then spray until it foams out the hole on the other end of the rail. After a few weeks I pull the tape off the hole on the bottom part of the tube and let the excess run out. The advantage of these thin film rust preventers is that you can spray them on visible surfaces, wiring, and mechanical parts. After a few weeks it can be wiped off leaving some in the tiny cracks and crevices where rust starts.