The 'E' Type Forum

For no sensible reason I can think of, I have decided to go down the EFI route.

Probably because a full kit came up for sale on this forum and I bought it (thanks Philip).

I am hoping in might give me more mpg, idle a bit better, be a bit smoother and maybe be a bit quicker.

Who knows?

I have just run in my new motor, I has just done 1,000 miles since Jan on SUs that were freshened up 10 months ago.

So, having acquired what is an Emerald K3 setup with 3 pairs of throttle bodies, I drove the car in to the workshop this afternoon and removed the inlet manifold and throttle linkages.






Soon things were looking like this.





I have plenty of other bits and pieces to attach.

And plenty of questions.

One question at a time though.

What is the accepted way of attaching the trigger wheel to the harmonic balancer? This is a spare wheel I have. Does it squeeze in next to the HB and the outer pulley wheel?

See pictures from the set up on my car.
The bolt and spacers for the trigger wheel sensor should give you a good idea also on where to fit the trigger wheel.

This is the fitting instruction from Emerald.
Put the engine to TDC, The gap needs to be about 2 O’Clock, just to the right or top position.
It is 110 degrees from the sensor, not the TDC mark.

Thanks for that,

Looks like I know what I am doing then.

James

Well I set the motor to tdc with the pulley pointer (with the cam lobes pointing outwards).

Then I bolted the crank sensor to the sump in place of the pointer using 2x24mm crush tubes to bring it into place.

This brought the sensor out just beyond the face of the outer pulley so it gets the signals from the wheel.

Having established the sensor position, I can now get the blank trigger wheel drilled to bolted onto the harmonic balancer and clear the crank bolt (a 2.5 inch circle cut out of the center should do it).

I assume I can adjust the timing accurately from a laptop, but the trigger wheel has to be attached in more or less the right place. This is 110 degrees from tdc.

I hung a different trigger wheel from the pulley for excitement. I think my sensor will have to be spaced down a bit to get the correct clearance which i think is 2.5mm.

I will drop the trigger wheel and a spare outer pulley at John the lathe tomorrow so he can drill me some accurate slots.

You could also contact Emerald, they have predrilled trigger wheels that are very easy to fit.

They charge around 37-38 £ including VAT for a "plug and play" trigger wheel.

I guess you are enjoying yourselves?

Have a great day
Jan

Jan,

I took your advice and phoned Emeralds. The legend who is Dave Walker picked up the phone and knew all about it. He was mapping a racing e type last week that made 390 bhp apparently.

I have been reading his workshop reports in PPC magazine for the last 10 years. There is nothing he doesn't know about getting real performance out of just about any engine

His advice was to retain the whole low pressure fuel setup from the tank to the glass bowl, as it neatley gets fuel into the engine bay.

Then, using the air filter support bracket, mount the swirl pot and combined filterfilter, 3.5bar fuel pump and relay.

Then the high pressure line will connect into the fuel rail, then out the other end to the pressure regulator, then back into the swirl pot.

This is much simpler than fitting two lines going back to the tank.

Under-bonnet temperatures are not a consideration as the fuel is relatively cool.

The trigger wheel is at Johns for fitting to the crank pulley.

So now I need to by a 3.5 bar fuel pump, I bought the combined swirl pump and filter from Emerald already.

I suspect a Facet put or something from the local motor factors will do the job.

Anyone got any sensible ideas on the choice of efi pump??

Sorted the trigger wheel I think.

John dished the back of of the blank, removed the center and drilled 4 holes.




So it now centres nicely on the outer pulley.




I have made the bracket line up with the trigger wheel having a 2.25mm gap to the sensor, which runs true.

The missing tooth is on 110 degrees from TDC as I have been instructed. You can just see in the picture.




Next coil pack bracket and throttle linkage.

OK,

Didn't have much time but none the less I have now

Done the trigger wheel,

Completed the coil pack assembly, the bracket cunningly also blanked of the dizzy hole.

Removed the distributor and coil,

Attached the accelerator cable to the old throttle linkage arm. The throttle now operates all 6 butterfly's beautifully.

Swapped the coolant header tank for the washer bottle as the header tank fouled the throttle bodies.

So, what next?

Blank off the water pump bypass pipe, mount the ecu, fuel pump fuel filter, pressure regulator, catch tank, bit of wiring? must be something I have forgotten.

All seems simple so far, something horrible must go wrong soon!

Looks like you are getting close.
I am waiting for a "vga to usb" cable to connect the ecm to my computer so I can check whether the ECM is doing what it is supposed to do.
This because at the moment I have the revs hesitating to go backdown to idle again after I push the throttle.
Basically, I push the engine to 3000 rpm, release the throttle, and it will continue to run at 2700-2800 rpm. Emerald already gave me instructions on how to check this problem (ecm or mechanical) via their software.
As far as your EFI fuel pump question goes, I would have fit the one I have from a 1984 fuel injected jaguar XJ6, if I had known before buying a new one from Emerald.
If you fancy a 2nd hand fuel pump. 40£ including shipment from Italy.
I know it works since it managed to obliterate my e type fuel filter....

I see,

I have a fuel pump and swirl pot/filter from Emerald already.

What I intend to do it mount those the pressure regulator and new catch tank on a scratch built alloy shelf bracket, occupying the position where the air filter bowl was.

I am loath to drill any non standard holes in the body, so this will get around that issue as I intend to use the existing air filter mounting points and the air filter support beam.

I don't want to do anything to the car that cannot be reversed in a weekends tinkering.

Good thinking.

Here are some pictures for the bracket I got from Emerald for mounting a.o. the fuel pump.





If you require more, let me know.

Yes please, more pictures please.

Even though I have just finished my template.

Always open to new ideas.

James

I installed the fuses on a shelve hook bought from the local DIY store.



By the way, how did you root the throttle cables?
The latest instructions received today mention that they should pass not between engine and radiator expansion tank, but between ventilator and said expansion tank with only 2 places where they are fixed to the car, creating a gentle bend in the cables.
I have too many "bends" having ziptied them in between engine and expansion tank.

Where/what will you do with the vent line from the swirl pot?

If my understanding of a vent line is correct, I would say that there is no vent line on my swirl pot.
The fuel that comes out of the fuel rail is fed back into the swirl pot and as such returned into the fuel circulation.
There is no line back to the fuel tank.

Morning boys,

The swirl pot doesn't need a vent apparently, as it is more of a reservoir.

I will try and post some pics later.

James

OK,

We are just about plumbed in now.

A few connections thats it.

Next week I should know if I win or lose.

James

Looking good . What other mods have you done to engine?
Regards. Darren

Thanks Darren,

Apart from the fact its all new, it is a bog standard 8:1 cr, short stud block.

I am hoping to get it running then limp it over to Dave Walker at Watton (Emearld).

He will set it up for me hopefully and do a dyno run, so the truth will soon be known!

My guess is 220hp at the rear wheels?

Anyone else want to guess?

If things go to plan of course.

Sorry for the delay, I had to go away for the week.

But I flew home today and got on with it.

So to recap, converting the car fro SUs to fuel injectors with electronic ignition has been pretty straightforward so far.

I have removed the carbs and throttle assembly and added a couple of small brackets to hold a swirl pot/filter, a high pressure fuel pump, and pressure regulator.

I fitted a trigger wheel on the crankwheel.

My mobile auto electrician wired in a generic Emerald loom. We have placed the ECU and relay box under the dash. This happened last week whilst I was away.

The aim is to increase smoothness, reduce fire risk and get some more mpgs maybe, as I Iike to go places in the E.

Bottom end torque is what I am after given the choice.

So, this afternoon I connected the battery, turned it over and -

Nothing.

So I read the quick start installation guide on the emerald website.

It said that the light on the ecu should be red, but when cranking should go green as it picks up the impulse from the crank sensor. This should be set no more than 1mm from the trigger wheel.

My box stayed red. My sensor was obliviously too far way from the trigger wheel.

I remembered that I had set mine at 2.5mm, so I readjusted it to 0.8mm with feeler gauges.

Turned the key, red turned to green and the motor struck up.

Bit of popping through the trumpets but it seemed pretty smooth.

Plugged in the laptop, loads of readings to play at. I pressed a couple of buttons and could make the idle far smoother, as I can cycle from -40 to + 40 btdc just like that, with the motor running.

I only want to limp it over to Dave Walker at Emerald so he can set it up on the dyno.

So, sounds good so far.