The 'E' Type Forum

The usual tricks for installing pop rivets in tight spaces weren't enough when it came to the drain shrouds on the doors of my '66 E-type coupe. So, I did a deep search on the internet and discovered something called "drive rivets." Am I the last person on earth to know about these? Package arrived and I just tried them out. They are genius! Not only do you not have to worry about scraping paint when forcing a too-wide rivet tool into place, you also don't have to worry about the tool slipping and scratching paint when it cuts the mandrel off. Insert, tap down the mandrel, and the job is done. Bit expensive per rivet but totally worth it.
Here's the link (it's U.S.A. but perhaps they're available all over?):
http://rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/drive ... rivets/1-8...

Seems your link got chewed up.

http://rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/drive ... ts-en.html

V interesting. How tight does it pull together on an unsupported piece of panel where you can't get any kind of reaction behind to hammer against? A pop rivet involves applying hefty compression between the 2 items being fastened until the mandrel snaps, but that doesn't seem to apply here. Wouldn't this type end up slightly loose, esp if the main panel is a bit flimsy and bounces when you start hammering?

While they seem a nice solution, as Jeremy suggests, I can't see them having the same clamping force or ability to bring the two sheets together like a blind rivet.

The trick I use is to put a couple of small nuts on the shank of the rivet before inserting it into the gun. You can also bend the shank upto 45 degrees and it will still pull. Wrap the end of the gun in duck tap so when it bounces as the rivet snaps, it doesn't damage the paintwork.

I riveted my drainage covers and heater pipe bezels on this way. Not at home at the moment but will post instruction pics later if need be.

Simon

Here is the link:
http://rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/drive ... ts-en.html

These rivets do not have the same clamping force as pop rivets, but they have a bit. Probably work best when parts are nearly flush.

I found that, even with spacer nuts on a bent mandrel, I was unsuccessful at fitting my rivet tool in place on the drain shrouds and these drive rivets worked for me.

Henry

Thanks for the link Henry.
I'm wondering if these might be good for the headlight chromes on a Series 2 where you don't actually want a large clamping force that might damaged the paint.

Simon

Judging by how and where they are used on my Buick's bodywork, they are better for joining brackets or small items to a panel, rather than clamping two structural panels together.