The 'E' Type Forum

hi

I was using a puller to remove what I thought would be the full hub bearing...however I succeeded in removing solely the outer bearing race...leaving the inner ring firmly on the hub....

at least I could remove the oil seal which was pretty lose....but now I have a problem....

I am now struggling to get a purchase on this inner ring

can In leave it in place and use only the outer race and needle bearings of a new bearing....or is there a trick to the inner ring



yours hopefully...!

Jonathan

You need to remove it.
Use a cold chisel with a nice sharp edge between the bottom of the bearing and the hub.
If that doesn't work, try some heat as well or just cut it off with a Dremel.

Hi Andrew
Figured as much...was wondering about the slicing option...at least I now know what options I have
Many Thanks
Jonathan

Hi Jonathen...or you need a bearing seperator https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/automot ... GwodPCgKag

This is one of the jobs where you need a wedge type bearing puller, as Steve links to. Diff output shafts are another job where you need it.

I have one of those pullers you can borrow - you must be somewhere near me - I'm in Horsham West Sussex

Thanks Steve....will purchase one of those

Just make sure you get one that fits....i put up the link just to show the type you need not the actual model to get

Cold chisel and a grinder, but be careful.
Use the cold chisel as suggested. If that won't move the bearing race, then carefully cut a diagonal slot in the race. Don't go all the way through. Then hit the slot with the chisel. If it doesn't crack cut a little deeper. Repeat until it does split.

I'd try to avoid the wedge puller as it can damage the hub, and that damage will need to be dressed out.

Why would it damage the hub? It's designed for that job. Unless you do the clamp bolts up like a gorilla of course.

Splitters like the wedge-type can and will damage the rest because they're nothing more than slow-motion cold chisels that are attempting to force their way into a marginal gap ; one of edges of the interface has to give, and it's not going to be the hardened steel bearing core.

They are designed to get behind the outer race of ball-races, which by definition have a bit of slop, and also have radiused corners to aid fitting - and removal, hence the tools in question.

The Timken-type core has neither of these.

This type of removal is a very common problem on the lower headstock taper-roller bearing core on motorcycles, which remain stuck on the lower-yoke stem with no asperity or edge to get hold of.

Our standard industry method is to get a MIG welder, obviously protecting neighbouring surfaces from any spatter, and weld two bits of something - anything - on, diametrically opposed, that will enable you to get a good tug underneath some sort of edges with a puller.

A suitably-sized old ball-bearing outer or inner from your Magic Box (I never throw bearings away for precisely this reason, and just punch out the cages) can make a good martyr for this.

That grip, plus the thermal shock and expansion, will make most - all ? - bearings a doddle to remove.

With the stem being so long, and pullers that deep being thin on the ground, on bikes it is often sufficient to just whack a good blob of MIG on the back edge, and then immediately use a cold chisel, even at quite an oblique angle, whereupon the race will pop off.

This "dead-simple-lazy- botch" might well work on the Jag bearing, at least sufficiently to be able to get the legs of the puller into place, or - why not - a bearing splitter which is fine once the gap has opened somewhat.

rfs1957 wrote:Splitters like the wedge-type can and will damage the rest because they're nothing more than slow-motion cold chisels that are attempting to force their way into a marginal gap ; one of edges of the interface has to give, and it's not going to be the hardened steel bearing core.

Oh I see what you mean - I was thinking of using it as a puller on the outer lip (the smaller one), not as a splitter between the bearing & hub. In fact I've never used these things as splitters - only as pullers. You don't need a lot of purchase to drag a bearing off.

They are nothing like cold chisels and a hammer.....one slip with the chisel or hammer and you have problems...i have used both and know which one i would use first

All good advice guys,thanks..I will try to get this new splitter to grip under the top ridge/edge of the bearing ring...then try and get it to pull the bearing off....my 3 pronged puller is too "adjustable" to get a decent purchase

265bhp wrote:All good advice guys,thanks..I will try to get this new splitter to grip under the top ridge/edge of the bearing ring...then try and get it to pull the bearing off....my 3 pronged puller is too "adjustable" to get a decent purchase

You may find the splash guard interferes with the bearing splitter. This is why i usually use a cold chisel. It is unusual to require a huge amount of force to get these bearings off.

bearing splitter worked a treat....clamped it around that top lip of the bearing ring, placed hub upside down on a block of wood and belted the splitter on all 4 corners one after another

3 minute job per hub

thanks all for the help..!



Jonathan

I would use it the other way round - so you don't have the chamfer uo against the lip.

I hammered some carpet cutter blades into the slot, and after about 2 or 3 a chisel could be used. Iirc even the blades were re-used again after this.

Carsten