Well, I have started to check my front suspension settings, Camber,Caster and Toe in.
Thought I do some ruff adjustment before going to the shop for the final adjustment.
Due to Haynes manual the camber should be 1/4 deg (+-1/2) positive, is this correct?
What worries me is that I have a visible positive Camber on both sides now and I wonder if I should aim for getting both sides the same degrees (positive Camber) even if it is wrong compared to specified 1/4 deg.
Or should I get each side as close to 1/4 deg as possible.
Haynes says it shouldn't differ more than 1/2 deg between sides, maybe it is the answer but is that recommendation based on modern 205/70R15 tires?
Lets say I have 1 deg positive angle on both sides after removing all shims, is this still acceptable?
I suspect I have to remove all 4 shims on both sides to get as close to specification as possible.
Just looking for some opinions here.
Camber setting
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politeperson
- Posts: 1387
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:26 pm
- Location: Boston UK

#2 Re: Camber setting
Is the car built up with the bonnet on now?
Finishing off an S1 roadster
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#3 Re: Camber setting
Have about about 85 kg in lead bars on the engine to compensate for the bonnet, exhaust manifold and missing cooling fluid. I know I’m a little inpatient and will soon have everything but the bonnet on the car but just checking a little in advance.
Talked to the local tire shop today, having a fancy rig for setting all the measurements, he just been on a “education” about “classic cars” We checked the values for my 69 and the computer said it should be near 1deg negative with modern tires, but I will probably not be able to have that.
Talked to the local tire shop today, having a fancy rig for setting all the measurements, he just been on a “education” about “classic cars” We checked the values for my 69 and the computer said it should be near 1deg negative with modern tires, but I will probably not be able to have that.
//Peter
1969 Serie 2 OTS
1969 Serie 2 OTS
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#4 Re: Camber setting
Hi Peter....befor you start any Geometry settings you really need the car sitting front and rear at the correct ride heights...... wheels ideally need to be sitting on some kind of slip plates to settle the suspension..if you cant move the car forwards/ backwards then a good bounce on the slip plates will help....all bushes should be loose until you get the suspension fully loaded...then tighten then.......note that changeing any one setting will affect the others....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5 Re: Camber setting
Assuming you want good handling and are running radial tires. I suggest you remove all the camber shims on both sides. Then only add shims to the most negative side so they are equal. Add equal thickness shims front and back of the upper A arm. Ideally you want some negative camber, but your suspension geometry may not allow for much.
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