The 'E' Type Forum

Hi,
I'm thinking of going this route.
Most of the calipers available seem to be those for vented discs. On reading the fitment guides these refer to calipers for solid discs.

Has anyone tried the conversion and more importantly used the vented disc calipers?

Thanks

Tim

Either will work. Series 1 solid discs with the narrow calipers, later ventilated discs with the wide calipers.
You will need to machine about 6mm off the diameter of the discs to fit.

Thanks Andrew,
So does this mean that I can fit vented discs ( presumably from a series3) with vented calipers from a Volvo to my series 1.

If so sounds good to me

Tim

I have that setup on one of my cars, a 1967 S1 FHC. Caveat; I bought the car with them on and didn't actually make them myself.
I have made a setup for a set of narrow calipers for my current resto.

Hi Tim,

I did the Volvo brake upgrade years ago but with solid discs, I did a write up that tells you all you need to know http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0031b.pdf

You will need to modify it slightly if fitting vented discs but the work involved is still basically the same.

Dave

Dave K wrote:Hi Tim,

I did a write up that tells you all you need to know http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0031b.pdf

Dave

Which is what I copied. Thanks Dave!

...which is what I copied !

I found a VERY cheap set of overhauled calipers in the US, about 35 Dollars a pair. Really !, but the were full of flaws, like rusty pistons, and missing rubber rings. So I mailed them, and got a better set.

Recently however I discovered that on some caliper halves, they had drilled the air bleed holes too deeply, so I had to dig out the others and make another set. Which I could, enough spares, but, beware of the available repro quality. And those Volvos aren't on the scrapyards anymore, so no real chance to find an OEM set.

Carsten

Just to update the write up, I did a few sets for owners and found by removing the pistons and using a 2 mm dia extra long drill bit I could drill through without splitting the calipers, just be careful you don't drill right through like someone I know did, they filled the hole with quick metal so it should be fine!!

I got the extra long drill bit from RS components, any god tool shop should sell them and probably ebay. The drill bit will flex so you need to go easy but cast iron is nice to drill.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I've read the write up. What s the essential difference if fitting vented discs?

Tim

My E has the solid disc/volvo calipers which i converted myself about 6 years ago , thanks to davek for pointing out the info back then, i,ve recently done another set [pics]
One thing i did different was to spark erode and not drill the hole to link both bores , i decided drilling at 45 degrees would risk thinning the wall thickness on the outer of the casting . Sparking through at 90 degrees gives no risk .
The discs needed the O/D turning down and the caliper bolt holes opening up to suit 1/2" bolts , blank off 1 inlet [ i used a UNF caphead with a copper washer .

Getting old units will not be easy now , as these fit nicely on Ford Escorts and capri's etc , i think these Girling 4 pots were also fitted originally on the Austin Princess .It's a worthwhile conversion with good results.

I would only recommend competent people to mess with brakes though ,if in doubt buy Coopercraft or similar.

Hope this is of help , Steve

I did this 14 years ago and they still work perfectly and don't leak a drop. I'm also still on the original set of pads! I split the halves and drilled through to join the two chambers. I bought a new set from United Auto Parts ( a North American wide chain that caters to professional mechanics and garages) and thought that the price was quite reasonable.

steve3.8 wrote: blank off 1 inlet [ i used a UNF caphead with a copper washer .

On the set I've just done I found that the pipe threads were M10 metric, not 3/8" UNF. They're close enough to almost fit...

Yes correct Andrew i remember now , there are 2 brands on the Volvo , Girling and ATE , ATE are all metric , the Girling have a unf bleed screw . I already had the extra capheads saved from the first pair i did .

Hi all,
I’m following this through as something to do while my OTS is on its way from the US.

I picked up a set of calipers ( girling vented disc) they need a rebuild but would do that anyway. I’ve separated the halves in readiness for the drill through. I have a source for the seal between the halves so that’s ok.
I’m struggling to understand the fluid route ? Do I drill between the pistons on both halves or just one?
If it’s just one then which one?


Tim