Transfer pipes

[tim wood]

As part of my LHD to RHD conversion I believe I have to install an additional transfer pipe for the brake vacuum. (4.2). I plan on replacing all the in dash pipes at the same time whilst I have it disassembled.

Not looking forward to this but does anyone have recommendations for pipe suppliers ?

Thanks as always

Tim

[Robsan]

perhaps item 15 and 8 in
http://www.sngbarratt.com/CatalogueProd ... 041&a=8041

or item 15 and 22 in
http://www.sngbarratt.com/CatalogueProd ... 41&a=15695

[ETTony]

Mine came from sng, stainless too.
But i did not know to add the extra vac pipe at the time so i have an unsightly copper pipe at the rear of the engine

[andrewh]

I had mine from SNG as well . I did find that were not a perfect fit and as such because the angles of the backing flange was not quite correct they didnt sit in perfectly flat against the inside of the bulkhead. This meant that the amount of pipe protruding was not enough to really get a good hose clip bite. This is a pita job and working inside the bulkhead is one of the most dreadful jobs on the car in my opinion. When you do fit them , make sure that you fit them in the correct order as there is an order which I cannot recall and if you don't adhere to it, you will not be able to get one of them in. Oh , and Stainless Steel is very very stiff and will not bend easily. I think the next time I do this job I am going to compare the pipes against those that came out before trying to fit them.

EDIT to try to make it a bit clearer. I found that one of my new SS pipes was marginally, and as Hugo says MM longer left to right than it should be. This meant that yes it went into the hole with some encouragement but at a slight angle. This meant the emerged pipe was not at Right Angle to the bulkhead wall and therefore it did not allow it to fit correctly against its backing plate. Really it needed bending back in the middle to close the left to right distance, and then the RH side bending out to be at Right angle to bulkhead. That I am sure is as clear as mud. I would definitely keep trial fitting them until each one is correct.

[Hugo]

I replaced all mine with stainless not long ago. From SNGB I think. All fitted perfectly - maybe I had to lean on one or two of them a bit but you're talking fractions of a mm. Just stick them in the holes from the front & you'll soon know if they're going to drop in or not. I was antcipitating this to be a trcky job but it was actually very straightforward. But I did have the distinct advantage of having the car stripped down - i.e. screen out & dash off.

[mach2andy]

One trick I picked up on when you come to refit the pipes is to feed some wire right through the pipes before you fit them. Feed the ends of the wire through the relevant holes in the b.head and once the ends of the pipes are located you can then pull on the wire to hold the pipe flange hard up against the b.head whilst you rivet them in place. Like Hugo I'll be doing this job with my car completely stripped. I don't envy anyone trying to do this with the screen in situ. The photo cribbed from the restoration of NNF10H shows the routing of the pipes, and the text that accompanies this - which you should find in the blog - gives the correct order to install them
ATB
Andy

[tim wood]

Thanks to all for the replies.
Looks like stainless pipes from SNGB are the ones. I will let you know how I get, on at the moment I’m gathering info and parts whilst the car is on the high seas.

Tim

[Hugo]

I tried that trick with the string & found it didn't work as well as I thought. I just reached down from the top on the inside & guided the pipes through, then I was able to hold them by hand while I rivetted them in place. I repeat this was with the car stripped - no dash no screen.
Better than string would be a ten year-old boy to hold the pipes from inside while you rivet them from outside if your screen is still in place.
SNGB's rivets were too short btw. Oh, and grab the rivet gun firmly with your third hand while you squeeze to stop it bouncing & hitting the paintwork. I had to grind the head of my rivet gun to death to get it to go in beside the pipe.

[andrewh]

I tried that trick with the string & found it didn't work as well as I thought. I just reached down from the top on the inside & guided the pipes through, then I was able to hold them by hand while I rivetted them in place. I repeat this was with the car stripped - no dash no screen.
Better than string would be a ten year-old boy to hold the pipes from inside while you rivet them from outside if your screen is still in place.
SNGB's rivets were too short btw. Oh, and grab the rivet gun firmly with your third hand while you squeeze to stop it bouncing & hitting the paintwork. I had to grind the head of my rivet gun to death to get it to go in beside the pipe.

Yes I forgot that. I ground mine down too.

[288gto]

Hi Tim,

As regards bouncing rivet guns, I cut a 10cm circle of 3mm rubber with a hole slightly smaller than than the pipe bezel and then masking taped this in position while I did the 3 rivets.
With masking tape alone you risk the sharp end of the snapped off rivet damaging the paintwork should the gun bounce.
I did find the string method to hold them in place quit useful though, as it meant I could pull the inner flange tight to the bulkhead.
Tie a washer or something to each end of the string so you only have to pull on one end at a time if that makes sense.

Simon

[tim wood]

Thanks Simon, that’s good advice . I understand the tied washer concept !

This job sounds like one of the trial and tribulations of the conversion .


Tim

[JagWaugh]

Thanks Simon, that’s good advice . I understand the tied washer concept !

This job sounds like one of the trial and tribulations of the conversion .


Tim

Think of it as a warmup to the screen jets and wiper mechanism.

The last set I installed from SNG needed a bit of fettling to make them fit sweetly.