FHC door window frame fitting

[Maikel]

Hello,

after all today work on the FHC is done we know fit all the chrome parts and although the doors fit perfectly the window frame is not straight forward to fit.

We can get 2 sides with a nice steady gap but the 3rd side is somewhat out.
Moreover, both frame do not look equal. The LHS window frame seems too short for the door. Either we have a mice gap at the B post or at the A - post.

Can you get them to 7 mm all around? Largest gap is along the curve between A post and roof line.

What are your experiences and dimensions? Also how much do I need to lift the bare door at the opening side to make it flush when fully reassembled?



Have seen several posts but no real figures. I know there are two different length of frame lips, that tells me it is not easy to get them all the same.

Many thanks

Maikel

[politeperson]

Maikel,

Have you remembered to fit the "u" shaped packing washers between the frame and the door? This will raise the frame if you want.

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... 2ac3be9a53

Also the window frame angle can be adjusted by altering the bracket positions at the bottom of the door. However, on many doors I have seen, a small hairline crack can develop through fatigue at the top of the door frame. This allows the door frame to flex where it meets the frame at the top of the door.

This causes the window frame to stand out proud of the car when the door is shut. Just needs welding up.

The only way I have been able to fit a bare door shell is to add a bag of weight to replicate the window/frame/door card/regulator etc. About 1.5 kg hung near the end did it in my case, as the door flexes down a bit, so you can get the gaps right.

Finally, I have found the frame needs to be fitted with the correct sealing rubber when you are in the process of assembly, otherwise it probably wont shut properly. I have three different cross sections of rubber for window frame seals being sold by 3 different vendors being described as the same part! Only one did the job. I think it was the cheap one from Woolies.

[jag68]

I had the opposite problem on a '67 coupe I was restoring. The right door frame with 3 shims was a perfect fit to the rain channel. The left side however, with no shims, was almost touching the channel. This was after I'd carefully mounted the doors with perfect gaps etc, paying particular attention to the bottom gap and the fit of the top of the door front and rear. Careful measurements (it's difficult to do in this area) showed that the left side of the roof/channel assembly was 3/16" lower compared to the right. When you looked at the car, a bare tub with the doors installed, after being carefully levelled, you could see that the left side of the roof was down. My solution was to cut the pillar (A post I think it's called) make up a 3/16" insert and weld it in. Problem solved. I suspect that the problem was within factory tolerances at the time.

[Maikel]

James,

very smart idea with the weight hanging on the door. Why did I not thing about it myself?
The washers I have in mind but along the D side, but there the will be no washer at the near the A post and several near the B post.

The frames are fine, at least have no cracks, will also now trial fit with the seal and see what it's like, but the gaps on the left side are not the same as of the right side. Not sure how accurate the original factory tolerance was, but those days maybe less accurate than a German engineer school would teach.

I was thinking of "shaping" slightly the door frame at the upper curve, the window itself has some way inside the frame arch.

I also realized that some window frames had a bar between the two bottom brackets and some did not.

Would be nice to know what the original gaps sizes were. Is there no ex factory worker out there who can tell how they did it?

Many thanks for more input

Maikel

[abowie]

In my experience of about a dozen cars there's no easy way to do this. The frame can be adjusted in all 3 dimensions and it's really all just trial and error and patience.

[politeperson]

Maikel, the hairline crack I have found is on the door frame, not the window frame.

I wish I had taken a picture of the location. It is where the window frame joins the door frame at the top.

It is usually to be found on the door frame at the b-post end at the top inside on the door, only visible with the door card removed.

I assume it is a fatigue fracture cased by a poorly adjusted window frame catching the upper b-post when the door is closed.

[Maikel]

Hello,

many thanks for your input.

Here is a picture of how it would look like using washer.
I measured the diagonal from the front bottom to the top inner corner of the frame. Comes up with between 70,5 and 71 cm. Have no other idea how to get the window frame closer to the roof bow. Door is spot on. Measured and compared with others, all the same.
It might have been ok those days, to have such a gap, but I do not like to know it.
Somehow I have to "adjust" it.



Many thanks

Maikel

[abowie]

Hello,

It might have been ok those days, to have such a gap, but I do not like to know it.
Somehow I have to "adjust" it.


Maikel

I have seen similarly shimmed windows but not many. The issue will be whether the interior door trim will fit over the top. Which it probably will.