e-type bonnet assembly
#1 e-type bonnet assembly
Hi, paul here from new south wales, australia, i'm currently restoring series 1.5 2+2 1968 , starting to re-assemble bonnet assy and are wondering if anyone know's of a step by step guide/tutorial etc that best explains this procedure as i acquired car in boxes and didn't disassemble.Any advice would be much appreciated !!!!!!
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#2
Check out our Knowledge Base where you will find lots of useful information. e.g. Bonnet Fitting Guide: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/bonnet.pdf
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#3
Hi Paul,
Welcome to the forum. You are in much the same position I was a few years ago. I bought my car in pieces and then bought a part dismantled s/h bonnet to fit. Mine is a Series 3, but the principles are the same.
The article David has pointed you at is good and another article was written by the UK magazine "Practical Classics" years ago; this series was turned into a book and was available for a few years, try a search on ebay (probably best to search ebay uk for the best chance of finding it). The book went out of print and will apparently never be printed again as the masters were lost, however, it was released as cd version, which is a bit clumsy but workable, as far as I know that version is still available. I may still have an electronic copy, but will have to check my old hard drives (currently not at home) and I also have the original book, which is quite helpful on other matters of E-type restoration.
A point to note is that the bonnet may not necessarily fit well when you refit it, even if it is the original for the car. This is especially true if you have replaced, or even removed and refitted, the engine frames, or carried out any restoration work on the bulkhead and or sill areas. Much of this can be overcome by manipulating the bonnet flanges and wheel arches - you may have to enlarge some of the holes; don't worry, this was common practice on the production line and many say this is why Jaguar used the oval washers, which can hide a multitude of sins! You will also need a fair selection of the bonnet shims when fitting the bonnet - start with it well forward and high to reduce the risk of fouling, then work backwards - be prepared for a long job! As a last resort you can cut, or even add metal to the rear of the bonnet, but whatever you do, make sure the bonnet fits before undertaking any painting in the area!
I'll have a look for an electronic copy of the book and let you know if I still have it, hope this helps,
Regards,
Simon
Welcome to the forum. You are in much the same position I was a few years ago. I bought my car in pieces and then bought a part dismantled s/h bonnet to fit. Mine is a Series 3, but the principles are the same.
The article David has pointed you at is good and another article was written by the UK magazine "Practical Classics" years ago; this series was turned into a book and was available for a few years, try a search on ebay (probably best to search ebay uk for the best chance of finding it). The book went out of print and will apparently never be printed again as the masters were lost, however, it was released as cd version, which is a bit clumsy but workable, as far as I know that version is still available. I may still have an electronic copy, but will have to check my old hard drives (currently not at home) and I also have the original book, which is quite helpful on other matters of E-type restoration.
A point to note is that the bonnet may not necessarily fit well when you refit it, even if it is the original for the car. This is especially true if you have replaced, or even removed and refitted, the engine frames, or carried out any restoration work on the bulkhead and or sill areas. Much of this can be overcome by manipulating the bonnet flanges and wheel arches - you may have to enlarge some of the holes; don't worry, this was common practice on the production line and many say this is why Jaguar used the oval washers, which can hide a multitude of sins! You will also need a fair selection of the bonnet shims when fitting the bonnet - start with it well forward and high to reduce the risk of fouling, then work backwards - be prepared for a long job! As a last resort you can cut, or even add metal to the rear of the bonnet, but whatever you do, make sure the bonnet fits before undertaking any painting in the area!
I'll have a look for an electronic copy of the book and let you know if I still have it, hope this helps,
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#4
Hi Paul,
I am currently resorting my bonnet. I have just taken it down to it's component parts (for the last time I hope) to paint all the edges. During the work the bonnet has been on and off the car a few times and taken apart a few times as well. For what it's worth I have found it easiest to assemble the bonnet onto the car one piece at a time. By doing this it is possible to get the bonnet onto the car working alone and make adjustments as you go. For the record underpan first supported with cushions then the air ducts followed by the centre section, next the wings then headlamp panels finally the rear panels. Getting to all the bolts is fiddly but can be done.
I am currently resorting my bonnet. I have just taken it down to it's component parts (for the last time I hope) to paint all the edges. During the work the bonnet has been on and off the car a few times and taken apart a few times as well. For what it's worth I have found it easiest to assemble the bonnet onto the car one piece at a time. By doing this it is possible to get the bonnet onto the car working alone and make adjustments as you go. For the record underpan first supported with cushions then the air ducts followed by the centre section, next the wings then headlamp panels finally the rear panels. Getting to all the bolts is fiddly but can be done.
-------------
Warren
S1 FHC 4.2 OSB
Warren
S1 FHC 4.2 OSB
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
-
Harveysearle
- Posts: 116
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2017 9:14 pm

#5 Re: e-type bonnet assembly
Hi guys
Have you still got any instructions on bonnett assembly
Thanks very much
Have you still got any instructions on bonnett assembly
Thanks very much
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#6 Re:
I'm just about to embark on the same job - but I'm getting a 404 from this link.Heuer wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:51 pmCheck out our Knowledge Base where you will find lots of useful information. e.g. Bonnet Fitting Guide: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/bonnet.pdf
Hugo Miller - rebuilding an imported Series II OTS & converting to RHD
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |
#7 Re: e-type bonnet assembly
Just go to the knowledge base section..technical info.....and scroll down to bonnet fit guide.... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
| Link: | |
| BBcode: | |
| HTML: | |
| Hide post links |



