The 'E' Type Forum

Just had a very exciting photograph sent through from Alan at AJS.

If anyone needs convincing that he is the best at what is does...

Hi Ash......just check the bolts on the top of the shocks....the nut should be on the outside so that the bolts can be removed whilst the irs is in situe if ever you need to remove shocks......Steve

The top damper mounting bolts appear to be the wrong way round. Steve beat me to it. These bolts should have a washer under the head of the bolt and the nuts.
I normally fit an additional large stainless steel penny washer on the Inner fulcrum shaft against the mounting cage, so the nut is not directly against the welded washer on the cage.
Similarly, I put a large stainless penny washer under the nut on the Outer fulcrum shaft so it is not directly in contact with the wishbone.
Regards,
Dave

Hi Ash,
look nice! I guess complete overhaul incl axle; blasted, painted and replated. How long did it take and would you tell us what Alan charged you? I am considering the same with a complete spare unit.

Regards
Mark

As always, many thanks for the helpful comments - I shall get all those recommendation sorted when I get it back next week.

It was the first time the complete unit had been off the car in 48 years so it was due some serious TLC!

Mark, complete restoration as you list to standard spec with latest bushes plus the easi-bleed system. Alan kept me updated throughout the work, gave me an expectation of 3 months (he took 10 weeks) and with a guide price of £3,500. Came in within a few pounds of that estimate.

Very pleased - and thanks for the original recommendation which came from this forum (obviously).

And special mention to Rory (rfs1957) who shipped over his 'threaded bar tool' from France to help me re-fit the unit. No deposit, no cash for postage - just happy to help. The true spirit of this forum I reckon.

Will be nice to get the car back on four wheels.

Cheers
Ash

Looks very nice.

Did he set your camber & caster or will you do that once installed?

Wondering what is the threaded bar tool? I am getting ready to put my IRS back in hopefully soon.

Hi Stephen

Yes, all setup to put back on and drive; castor/camber setup exactly as it was dismantled.

Alan’s only post-fitting recommendation was to check main bolts for tightness after running for a while.

I am not technically able to link previous posts here but if you search for rfs1957 and look for his IRS post your will find Rory’s clever device. Basically is a threaded rod that you attach between body (ARB point) and the IRS unit and wind the unit into its final position to align the V mounts.

I shall be using it at the weekend so will report back.

Cheers
Ash

As promised, a quick update.

So IRS back on - usual challenges that have been well recorded on here many times but eventually all bolted up and Radius Arms attached.

Started to bleed the brakes and I have a leak on top of one of the calipers. What a nightmare. Not good when you have spent a lot of money on a professional rebuild.

Looks like its the rear pipe into the near-side caliper. Impossible access to 'nip up'. The only chance I have I think is to remove the N/S front shock/spring to gain access.

So it's spring compressor shopping for me tomorrow. Hopefully I do not need to drop the unit again.

But the 'threaded rod' from Rory was so helpful for the second 'V' mount on each side. Mounted between the body (rear ARB bolt) and a hole on the mount itself, it pushes the mounting into position to align the holes. Simple but very clever. I understand that SNGB are considering producing them. Definitely would get my vote!

A mixed day in the workshop!! If it was easy it wouldn't be fun!

You don’t need to compress the spring to remove it.

thanks Angus - very helpful.

cheers

I have been in touch with Rory to arrange the return of his infamous 'threaded bar' tool. He has asked that I keep it, post this update and send it on to anyone who is looking to install an IRS soon.

So having fitted the rear 'V' blocks to the bodywork (tightly - difficult to get at these bolts once the unit is in place) and then loosely bolted up the IRS to these, the front V Blocks are invariably not aligned to the bodywork holes.

Rory's clever tool is attached to one of the rear ARB bolts and onto the front V Block. You them simply screw the nut down the shaft and it pushes the holes into alignment. Clever!

So from start to getting all 4 V Blocks aligned, bolted up and tight was literally 30 minutes for me. The Radius Arms were a different story!!

So if anyone has an IRS to be re-fitted then I strongly recommend you let me forward this onto you.

cheers
Ash

Hi
Would this tool work with the S3 IRS. I’m not sure what the rear ARB bolts are?
Any pictures of the thing in action
Cheers
Mark

Hi Mark

Rear ARB - Rear Anti Roll Bar.

On the S2 the mounts are in front of the IRS so in the perfect position to attached one end of the threaded bar to.

My apologies, I have no experience of S3 cars so not sure if your setup is the same. I am sure someone on here will enlighten us.

cheers
Ash