The 'E' Type Forum

Hi all,
I have been trying to complete the dash/instrument panel wiring on my 63 FHC, prior to getting the dash-top and ventilation hoses installed. As per my last post in the Restoration Stories section, I was making good progress until I started on the final set of connections for the heater blower. The car retains its positive earth config and has a Holden dummy regulator for a Powerlite dynator. I haven't installed their relay (sits between warning light and ign switch) as part of the package yet, until I've got the original ignition setup confirmed.

viewtopic.php?p=101069#p101069

I have since then gone back and tested continuity through the wiring, switches, bulbs, relays & fuses for the following components that have stopped working, using the Coventry wiring book:
1. Choke warning light & switch.
2. Ignition switch & warning light.
3. Flasher switch & relay (using a durite replacement as all bulbs are LED)

All these check out through continuity back to the starter solenoid, control box etc. So I'm confident that the wiring seem ok on paper. However, when I come to put some power into the wiring, I get mixed results.

1. Choke light & switch. When I put power to the green switch wire, earthing through existing earth connection, the light comes on when the switch is activated. Replacing the green switch wire into its 3 way connector and putting power into the connector, it no longer works! The connector came as part of the loom and was 'pre-wired' with the Fuse 7 feed, the flasher relay feed and the reverse lamp feed. By process of elimination, it seems the Fuse 7 feed is the connection that stops the choke light working. This may be 'normal' based on where I'm applying the power - my auto electrics experience doesn't reach that far (or very far at all to be honest). Applying power at the Fuse 7 connection (fuse is ok) also results in it not working.
The wiring diagram shows a slightly different wiring config for this connector. It shows four connections, the fourth being the Fuel level warning lamp green wire as well, however the green wire from the lamp disappears into the wiring loom and reappears at fuse 7.
2. Flasher switch & bulbs. With the power applied at the 3 way, the indicator warning bulbs and the indicators lit independently in line with the switch control, but didn't flash.
3. Applying power to the ignition switch brown/white feed and turning the key to 'on', lit the warning light. That seems ok at the moment, but when I apply power at the starter solenoid and switch it on, there is no ign light coming on and the stop lamps and panel lights which light via the lighting switch on the panel, go out!

Can anyone shed any light (pun intended) on where I am going wrong with my testing?

Cheers

Richard

Hi Richard... I recently spent a significant amount of time on wiring with similarities to your post...
3.8 Series One 1962, +ve earth (via dynamo), used Coventry diagram, using LED's for rear lights, instruments and flasher , limited wiring capability but can follow a diagram with persistence!!

One thing ... Is this a new Autosparks loom? There seems to be an issue with Fuse 7 wiring with my Autosparks loom. Everything connects for me for Fuse 7 output now, but I have a spare green from it which doesn't have a home yet. Just cannot find a connection for it. There was a recent post re an Autosparks loom and fuse 7 which didn't seem to get resolved.

Another thought.. you refer to "powering up" your circuits? Is this via the installed car battery or an external source? When following circuit diagrams, just think the former avoids introducing complications. Get the ignition circuit from the battery sorted FIRST. Red ignition light on with turn of the key, then move on to all the other circuits from there.

Also, the Voltage Regulator 12v/10v is connected from Fuse 7. supplying 10v to the water temp and fuel gauges. Have you got your head round the wiring to that little box of tricks??

Just some thoughts and would just advise patience and dogged determination.

Regards Graham

Hi Graham,
Thanks for the tips. Yes, it’s a new Autosparks loom. I had a spare Purple braided wire that I finally discovered was the clock wire that turns brown! I have a spare green with a spade terminal as well, but it’s from one of the ‘sundries’ set. I’ll be having another crack at it tonight!

Cheers
Richard

Hi Richard,
I'm not going to be much help with the specifics because there are a number of differences between your car and mine. But maybe my experience in the last week or so might be some use...
I spent quite a bit of time working out how my alternator/ignition warning light set-up was supposed to work, as there were several variants over the production run, and I had installed a new alternator that rendered the 4TR and 3AW redundant. I recommend you get the logic of that bit of circuitry very clear in your head if you haven't already.
Check the state of the rotary light switch too. Yesterday I discovered that my light switch was giving about 9v at the outputs for side and headlights even when switched off, which was playing havoc with the HRW relay. Yours prob doesn't have this relay but it might be causing other problems. I took the switch apart and found the old grease impregnated with copper dust from the contacts was spread around and causing short circuits. I cleaned it all up and its working OK now but I'm getting a new one because the contacts are badly worn down.
You might be missing an earth somewhere. My rev counter backlight was intermittent till I realised the unit was only earthed when the clock adjuster cable happened to touch against the metalwork of the instrument panel ...
Check and recheck your connections. I flipped the 2 HRW cables where they join the main loom (both BW, but one has a green ident ring I missed) and as a result the HRW warning light was permanently on regardless of the position of the switch.
Just some thoughts. It's a great feeling when you nail the problem by applying careful logic and simple tools. Try fixing an electrical problem on a modern car....

I have now made some positive progress and it's now just the solid, instead of flashing, indicators to sort out. My guess is that this is a problem with the flasher relay that came with the led bulb kit - it was working initially so I will test this via substitution. All the other components that are currently connected up are now working again - wiper motor, washer motor, heater blower, stop lights and the ignition light. The latter turned out to be caused by the dynator not being installed yet - the relevant wiring from the loom needed to be connected to earth in order to complete the circuit.
The rest seemed to be sorted out after I disconnected all of the Green and White cables from the fuse box, ran the continuity tests again and reconnected everything, using the Coventry wiring book and many photos of other cars. So I guess it was either an incorrect connection first time round, or a dodgy connection that got fixed by reconnecting it.

I'm going to connect up and test the number plate lights and reverse light next, followed by the horns and finally the upgraded cooling fan.

Thanks to all for the hints, tips & pics!

The standard indicator flasher unit needs the current drawn by normal bulbs to make it work. In addition, the E type uses a less common three terminal flasher relay as the dashboard indicator lights are connected to it separately to the car body indicator lights.

I suggest you revert to standard bulbs and indicator unit to prove your wiring works correctly and then replace with LEDs if you must and diagnose from there.

You might like to read David (Heuer's) thread on his experience of fitting LED bulbs and the conclusion that when placed in 1960's Lucas designed units they give out less usable light than regular bulbs.

Thanks John,
The flashers were working ok with the led’s and an upgraded relay. I suspect it may have failed after various tests attempting to solved the other issues. I’ve got a spare, so I’ll try that first.
I’ve read David’s thread, very interesting. Particularly the stop/brake light observations.
So far, I’m not seeing any negatives in changing to them, but I’ve kept the originals just in case.