Salisbury 4hu stub axle nut tool?

[smokey_m14]

I have a salisbury 4hu out of a 1967 e-type. Does anyone have a picture or part number for the tool to remove the nut? this nut is recessed in there so you can't get at it with a vice

[mgcjag]

Hi....this is a similar tool from a S3 service manual......basically a large box spanner.....i have removed this nut many years ago with a large adjustable spanner used at an angle to just get on the nut and a hammer to shock it undone.....

[Mikael B]

Sitting with the same problem and saw this on eBay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 4194628782

However I think this will not work due to the fact that I have the same recess as you have on my 66.

Finally used hammer and a pin punch that smashed the nut little bit on one side.

If you find something useful please share , thanks.

[smokey_m14]

I've resolved myself to build a spanner like the large spanner like Mgjag posted, i'll post pictures when done. It seems like salisbury used 3 different variations of the stub axle assemblies in the 4HU. One with the nut recessed past flush with the carrier, one with the nut protruding past the carrier, and one with the nut on the flange side instead of the spline side. The other issue I have is the locking tab washer under the nut does not resemble the s1 locking tab washers from SNG, Terry's, or XK unlimited. It resembles the locking tab for a SII E-type out to the manufacturing of the XJS. It makes a lot sense now that Mgjag posted that picture of a S3 tool but less sense that's what you got in your 66. I wonder if your 66 uses this style of tab washer as well. https://www.motorcarsltd.com/12265.html

Another confusing point is the manual states end float should be between .001" and .003" but this guy talks about a spec for this assembly in terms of 5 inch lbs past the drag of the oil seal. Anyone have an insight on the correct sequence for adjusting this nut? Any clue what manual he's got?

[abowie]

Buy the correct sized socket.
Cut it in half so you have an open ended section.
Weld a handle on it.
Bob's yr uncle.

Alternatively you could use a cold chisel.

[smokey_m14]

It works out to about 47mm or 1-55/64th so i'll just build one it wont cost me anything but scrap and time. This is how you build a spanner from scrap.

[JagWaugh]

Cobble something up which allows you to get a large adjustable/pipe wrench close to the flats on the nut.




The section of hex bar isn't for applying torque - it just happened to be about the right size for the space I wanted.

[mgcjag]

Hi Smokey...re your video where the guy sets up the o/p shafts i think these are from an XJS(tapered bearings and crush spacer)...I have the 3rd (latest) type of diff on my 69 S2 the oil seal retainer is set up with shims and is notorious for leaks...chatted to Alan Slawson (diff rebuilder) who told me that the later XJS o/p shafts had a much better seal arrangement and set up with the collalsable spacer 5lb in.....and they are a direct replacement for a diff (3rd type)....i have them on the bench now just waiting to go in.....so dont think your video is E type.....Unfortumatle my E service manual only shows diff set up for the o/p shafts with the nut on the outside........Steve

[angelw]

A garden variety Ring Spanner will do the job very well. Some I have will fit without the outside surface of the ring interfering with the bore of the housing, others I've modified by grinding the OD of the ring until it fits without interference.

With regards to collapsible spacers to set Pre-Load, or End Float, they are an abomination, in my opinion. So many ducks have to be in a line for this system of Torque and Forget to work, that its downright unreliable, in my opinion. Although the setting of the Pinion Bearings with a collapsible spacer is a little OT, the principle is the same for those using collapsible spacers on the Output Shafts.

I throw the Collapsible Spacers as far as I can, and replace them with solid spacers. I have a Master Spacer of known length that will assure measurable End Play when assembled. After measuring the End Play, I select a correct length length spacer to give the correct End Play, or Pre-load. When Pre-load is called for, I check this with a lb/in torque wrench to determine the torque past the drag from the seal, required to rotate the pinion. An increase in torque (drag, if you like), will only occur if the bearings are in Pre-load. If End Float is called for, use a dial indicator.

Tapered Roller Bearing like to operate in Pre-load, not with End Play. Accordingly, I set up this type of bearing with varying degrees of Pre-load, even Wheel Bearings. In the case of Wheel Bearings, I use a spacer between the Bearings so that they can be Pre-loaded without having them spin on the Stub Axle (Front Wheel Bearings). This is what I do and its not a recommendation that every one should follow suit.


Regards,

Bill

[angelw]

Smokey Wrote:

Another confusing point is the manual states end float should be between .001" and .003" but this guy talks about a spec for this assembly in terms of 5 inch lbs past the drag of the oil seal. Anyone have an insight on the correct sequence for adjusting this nut?

Hello Smokey,
Clearly, the fellow in the video is setting the bearings to be under Pre-load and is how I would set up Taper Roller Bearings.

The book he is referring to would be a Series 3 XJ6, or XJS Manual. Notwithstanding that your book states 0.001" to 0.003" End Float, I would be setting these Taper Roller Bearings to be under Pre-Load, This is about the only reference to End Float I've read with regards to differentials used with Jaguars. Many S2 and all S3 cars had a Double Row, Angular Contact, Ball Bearing Race on the Output Shafts. The original equipment bearing had a split Inner Race, that when at rest had a slight gap between their inner ends. The size of this gap was predetermined so that when the two halves were drawn together by tightening the nut and their inner ends touched, the correct pre-load was applied to the bearing.

Sadly, these bearing have not been available for many years. The bearing being used as a replacement is also a Double Row, Angular Contact, Ball Bearing Race, but the Inner Race is one piece and the system has no pre-load. At 27mm, this bearing is 2mm narrower than the original, which necessitates the use of two, 2mm spacers (one for the Inner and one for the outer race).

Regards,

Bill

[steve3.8]

This was my solution , made up whilst doing the job .
Because of the chamfering on the thin recessed nut I lightly clamped the spanner to the bearing carrier to aid location.
Hope this helps.

[smokey_m14]

Wow, thank you guys for all the insightful responses. That's all quality information on the different variations and setup. This is what I came up with so far, It's probably a bit overkill but you can see where i'm going with it. I'll dig out the welder tomorrow and burn it together