Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
#1 Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
I have used several brands of this oil in my Jaguars over the last 35 years.
Recently Iwas convinced that the Gulf oil with extra high level of zinc additive (more in the 5L metal cans than in the 4L plastic cans) is even better for our engines.
I have now used it for the 2 most recent oil changes. What immediately struck me is how fast the oil goes through the cyl head and block. Took about half the normal time.
It flowed like the 5-30 synthetic oil that my wife´ s Audi uses.
How can this be possible
Recently Iwas convinced that the Gulf oil with extra high level of zinc additive (more in the 5L metal cans than in the 4L plastic cans) is even better for our engines.
I have now used it for the 2 most recent oil changes. What immediately struck me is how fast the oil goes through the cyl head and block. Took about half the normal time.
It flowed like the 5-30 synthetic oil that my wife´ s Audi uses.
How can this be possible
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#2 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
Also worth considering Valvolene VR1 20W50 Racing Oil.
I always use it in my V12.
Seems to tick all the boxes and has also been recommended to me by a number of engine builders.
Mike
I always use it in my V12.
Seems to tick all the boxes and has also been recommended to me by a number of engine builders.
Mike
1973 Jaguar E Type Series 3 OTS Signal Red
1968 Proteus Jaguar C Type Ecurie Ecosse Flag Blue
1963 Triumph TR4 Signal Red
2020 Mustang Bullitt Highland Green
1968 Proteus Jaguar C Type Ecurie Ecosse Flag Blue
1963 Triumph TR4 Signal Red
2020 Mustang Bullitt Highland Green
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#3 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
+1 on the Valvoline VR-1 20-W50 racing oil...my engine builder was emphatic about using it.
Alan
N.J.
Alan
N.J.
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Marquis Rex
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2018 7:50 pm
- Location: Mid-West USA

#4 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
From engine design and test experience, its not only Zinc Level but Phosphorus level you're interested in.
An engine I designed recently (which has a valve train very similar to a modern Jag AJV8 (funny that!) but made in China, had problems- and the cams would wear from excessive idling. Idling is the worst case in terms of Hertzian conact stress due to a lack of oil film build up.
Later digging- we found that it was due to a lack of phosphorus in the bucket tappet/camshaft interface.
Worst case for old engines are 2 valve pushrod-flat tappet. This is because 2 valve engines typically have bigger heavier valves and higher associated spring pressures, push rod architechture makes it worse because you typically have a higher valve system mass and again higher associated spring pressures- therefore Hertzian contact stresses.
Next is a two valve direct flat tappet- 2 valve- like our XK engines. Again due to the higher spring pressures
Ive never heard of issues with 4 valve Direct acting like modern Jags, the AJ27 has a very light valve system mass of only 100 grams.
For pushrod or old school two valve flat tappets I would aim for Nominal phosphorus level of 1100plus.
1600-1750 is Better. Im quoting Nominal Phosphorus Level PPM and Nominal Zinc Level PPM.
Most modern oils for production engines are down at 650-800 now- this is to do with the emissions system.
Mobil publishes their phosphous and Zinc Levels, I cant find anything for Castrol or anyone else.
I'm a firm believer in synthetic oils. Yes, even for older cars. The old wives tales about synthetics leaking is just that. (it came about because mineral oils would make gaskets and seals swell and Synethetics didn't-and hence leaking ensued- This shouldn't be an issue with modern synthetics). A synthetics viscosity wont degrade as quickly and the oil wont evaporate under high temps like a mineral oil does.
The 0W number, in say, 0W-40- signifies the cold flow viscosity while the 40 is the viscosity when at 100 deg C.
The recommendations from Jaguar of old was 20W-50.
I cant find a 20W-50 with a Zinc and Phos level of 1750 ppm.
There's a 0W-50 but that's 0W flow at cold.
There's a 15W-50 synthetic with a 1200 and 1300phos and zinc respectively.
Im now wondering whether to relax my requirement for the cold whether viscosity. A thiner viscosity under cold oil temps actually helps the oil to pump around the engine better.
There is a 20W-50 oil for V-twins, and that has 1600 and 1750 Phos and Zinc resp. The only problem there is that it doesn't contain the friction modifiers that an automotive synthetic would have so the viscosity would degrade quicker over time. Will it degrade quicker than a mineral oil? I seriously doubt it.....
I may just try the 0W-50 because although its cold pump viscosity is light, it has high zinc and phos and I don't think that 0W cold visco is a problem- unless anyone here with a technical/engine durability/design back ground can comment on that?
An engine I designed recently (which has a valve train very similar to a modern Jag AJV8 (funny that!) but made in China, had problems- and the cams would wear from excessive idling. Idling is the worst case in terms of Hertzian conact stress due to a lack of oil film build up.
Later digging- we found that it was due to a lack of phosphorus in the bucket tappet/camshaft interface.
Worst case for old engines are 2 valve pushrod-flat tappet. This is because 2 valve engines typically have bigger heavier valves and higher associated spring pressures, push rod architechture makes it worse because you typically have a higher valve system mass and again higher associated spring pressures- therefore Hertzian contact stresses.
Next is a two valve direct flat tappet- 2 valve- like our XK engines. Again due to the higher spring pressures
Ive never heard of issues with 4 valve Direct acting like modern Jags, the AJ27 has a very light valve system mass of only 100 grams.
For pushrod or old school two valve flat tappets I would aim for Nominal phosphorus level of 1100plus.
1600-1750 is Better. Im quoting Nominal Phosphorus Level PPM and Nominal Zinc Level PPM.
Most modern oils for production engines are down at 650-800 now- this is to do with the emissions system.
Mobil publishes their phosphous and Zinc Levels, I cant find anything for Castrol or anyone else.
I'm a firm believer in synthetic oils. Yes, even for older cars. The old wives tales about synthetics leaking is just that. (it came about because mineral oils would make gaskets and seals swell and Synethetics didn't-and hence leaking ensued- This shouldn't be an issue with modern synthetics). A synthetics viscosity wont degrade as quickly and the oil wont evaporate under high temps like a mineral oil does.
The 0W number, in say, 0W-40- signifies the cold flow viscosity while the 40 is the viscosity when at 100 deg C.
The recommendations from Jaguar of old was 20W-50.
I cant find a 20W-50 with a Zinc and Phos level of 1750 ppm.
There's a 0W-50 but that's 0W flow at cold.
There's a 15W-50 synthetic with a 1200 and 1300phos and zinc respectively.
Im now wondering whether to relax my requirement for the cold whether viscosity. A thiner viscosity under cold oil temps actually helps the oil to pump around the engine better.
There is a 20W-50 oil for V-twins, and that has 1600 and 1750 Phos and Zinc resp. The only problem there is that it doesn't contain the friction modifiers that an automotive synthetic would have so the viscosity would degrade quicker over time. Will it degrade quicker than a mineral oil? I seriously doubt it.....
I may just try the 0W-50 because although its cold pump viscosity is light, it has high zinc and phos and I don't think that 0W cold visco is a problem- unless anyone here with a technical/engine durability/design back ground can comment on that?
"Live Fast, Live Well, Live Free!"
1970 Jaguar E type OTS
1970 Jaguar E type OTS
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Gfhug
- Posts: 3791
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:08 pm
- Location: Near Andover, Hampshire,in D.O. Blighty

#5 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
Rex, that's very interesting. A popular oil in the UK is:
https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.u ... r-oil.html
Can't see any obvious Zinc or Phosphorous levels:
https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/prod ... 027604.pdf
Geoff
https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.u ... r-oil.html
Can't see any obvious Zinc or Phosphorous levels:
https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/prod ... 027604.pdf
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#6 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
The Gulf oil, in the 5L metal can, has a zinc level,of >1600
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#7 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
Gulf Classic 20W50 has zinc level of 2400ppm, one of most if not most on current market.
What is yout experience with this oil and which engine do you use it in? I would like to use it in carbed V12 engine but would like to hear some real experience bofore I decide to. Thanks. Pavel
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#8 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
This doesn't actually answer the OPs original question of why it seems to flow faster.... I can only imagine it isn't as thick as it says?
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
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#9 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
From what I read wrt to ZDDP contents in engine oil for our cars, it was recommended that the right level was around 1200.
See e.g.: https://aaoil.co.uk/123579-2/#:~:text=I ... uch%20ZDDP
2500 seems much too high.
See e.g.: https://aaoil.co.uk/123579-2/#:~:text=I ... uch%20ZDDP
2500 seems much too high.
Serge
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
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#10 Re: Gulf Classic 20-50 mineral oil
Viscosity index 115 hence fast flow
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