Dynamic timing and general running issues

[Shaguar]

Just got around to fitting the electronic ignition I purchased last year. I guess I was forced into it as I had the embarrassing situation that I ground to a halt yesterday during the cars first outing of 2010, with the following symptoms:
1. 5-10 miles at 60-70 mph, no problems
2. Came off dual carriageway and started misfiring
3. Strong smell of petrol and firing in the exhaust
4. Went for about three miles and then stopped altogether
5. Wouldn?t restart
6. Left for 10 minutes and it restarted and got me home about 5 miles

So fitted the electronic ignition today, went for a drive and she was running hot but otherwise okay. Checked the timing using a strobe light connected to No. 6 cylinder (front cylinder) and it was way out. My question is should I be disconnecting the vacuum advance pipe during the timing process? I left it in place, in the Haynes manual it only covers static timing setting.

Anyway went for another test run, at speed +2500 rpm she's running fine with good pickup but at low speed, when turning a corner for example there is very little pickup. Any assistance would be helpful. She didn't let me down today thankfully :) .

Recent parts changed include:
1. Coil
2. HT leads
3. Contacts and capacitor replaced with electronic ignition

[Heuer]

Have you checked the fuel filters (sump, glass bowl and carbs) are clean? The tank sump filter can cause the problems you describe as movement disturbs the silt and blocks the gauze. Leaving the car standing gets everything settled again - it is also rarely empyied because of the hassle! Other things to check are a decent earth between engine/body and the ignition switch contacts are not burnt/corroded.

[Mark Gordon]

Yes. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug its opening on the tube which leads to the intake manifold. You may find that your timing is not as far off as you saw while it was connected.
Mark

[christopher storey]

Let's take a step back. What sort of electronic ignition has been fitted . Is it with points , or without points , or 123 or what? If it is 123, is it the generic 6 cylinder one, or the JAG6 type? Your system is designed to run with vac advance, but the timing must be done with it disconnected. The static timing should be about 9 degrees (crankshaft) BTDC, and at idle it should be about 10 degs BTDC, advancing to a total of about 30 - 31degs BTDC at 3000 plus rpm. After timing it, reconnect the vacuum

[Shaguar]

Thank you all for your advice.

I re-timed the car this morning with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Reconnected it and just been for a spin, all is well and she's running the best she has for sometime :D .

David,
Obviously it could still be that the fuel tank has sediment in and because I've had it out for a run the last three days it hasn't had time to settle but given it's current state of health I'll probably leave that for a job later in the year.

Christopher,
The electronic ignition fitted is the Lumenition Magnetronic.

[Heuer]

You will be surprised how much sediment there will be in the sump! Easy as long as you run the car until almost empty, siphon if necessary, drain into one of those large oil draining trays and do it outside. Oh and yes, wear old clothes Certainly worth doing if you are planning a long road trip: