I am planning on giving the car a refresh re spray as there is the odd scratch etc on various panels. As the car is red it is very difficult to match the paint and it is not worth trying to do the odd panels etc.
The main concern is if I strip the car myself is the wind screen and the fiddle washer jets.
The rest seem to be fairly straight forward How difficult is it to take out the screen and refit. Any other issues I need to consider before taking on the work.
The car is a red series 1 3.8 convertible.
Tony
Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
#1 Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
Tony (E typed)
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
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christopher storey
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#2 Re: Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
Tony : the screen is not all that difficult to remove, particularly on an open car ; however, refitting it can be more troublesome, and it is probably worth getting someone like autoglass to do it, which they will usually do for a relatively modest fee . The screen washers are a bit if a bugger to get at, and from memory you will at the very least need to remove the dashtop , disconnect and probably remove the wiper linkage, in order to reach them
This pic illustrates the problem for you

This pic illustrates the problem for you

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politeperson
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#3 Re: Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
In theory it would be good for someone like Autoglass to fit the screen. When I wanted a screen fitted 2 weeks ago I was treated by total unenthusiasm by everyone I rang. They are all too busy fitting bonded screens for insurance companies.
I ended up doing it myself. Never done it before. It took 2 hours s for most of it then some fiddling for the side chromes.
The secret is to have a new soft rubber (C O Baines £25), a small supply of petroleum jelly, a windscreen fitting hook £12.
(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Gunson-7 ... SwNoBdq9Lt)
I reused my original top and bottom strips, the rubber insert was straight forward too with the fitting tool.
The rubber goes around the aperture on the car, tap in in. Vaseline around the outer rubber lip in preparation for the glass. You can also put Vaseline in the window groove to help the glass slip around.
Then you place the screen on the bottom rubber and slowly waggle it so it gradually drops in the groove. You can use the hook tool to help it in. You will soon see the importance of the Vaseline.
Keep the windscreen central to the car. More the 2mm off and you will find one edge is easy to get in the rubber, the other will be impossible as it is too far over.
Once the glass goes in so far, no adjustment side to side is possible, so keep it central.
The glass may look like it is too wide. It wont be, as it goes in, it fits the hole.
Once the bottom of the glass is more or less in, work it the rubber in around the side, hooking the rubber lip over the glass gradually. You may need to support the glass with your hand from the inside a bit to stop it falling through in the early stages.
Eventually you will be on the window top section.
Never let the metal tool touch the glass.
The finishing strips are easier. Push the bottom od a strip into its rubber groove over a few inches. Hook the rubber in on the top of the strip. Do the same on the other side of the strip. Then you can just work along the length pulling the rubber over gently with the hook tool as you go. Watch centralisation again otherwise you will have a gap at one end when you fit the chrome sides.
You are now ready to bond in the side chromes. Use automotive body sealer from your local motor factors for £5 a tube. You need one tube and a corking gun. Be sure to check the widescreen Rubber lip will hold the pouter edge of the side chrome.
You may like to clamp it into place whist the sealer drys over 12 hours at least. Wear gloves, it does not come off skin easily.
Watch this video.
James
I ended up doing it myself. Never done it before. It took 2 hours s for most of it then some fiddling for the side chromes.
The secret is to have a new soft rubber (C O Baines £25), a small supply of petroleum jelly, a windscreen fitting hook £12.
(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Gunson-7 ... SwNoBdq9Lt)
I reused my original top and bottom strips, the rubber insert was straight forward too with the fitting tool.
The rubber goes around the aperture on the car, tap in in. Vaseline around the outer rubber lip in preparation for the glass. You can also put Vaseline in the window groove to help the glass slip around.
Then you place the screen on the bottom rubber and slowly waggle it so it gradually drops in the groove. You can use the hook tool to help it in. You will soon see the importance of the Vaseline.
Keep the windscreen central to the car. More the 2mm off and you will find one edge is easy to get in the rubber, the other will be impossible as it is too far over.
Once the glass goes in so far, no adjustment side to side is possible, so keep it central.
The glass may look like it is too wide. It wont be, as it goes in, it fits the hole.
Once the bottom of the glass is more or less in, work it the rubber in around the side, hooking the rubber lip over the glass gradually. You may need to support the glass with your hand from the inside a bit to stop it falling through in the early stages.
Eventually you will be on the window top section.
Never let the metal tool touch the glass.
The finishing strips are easier. Push the bottom od a strip into its rubber groove over a few inches. Hook the rubber in on the top of the strip. Do the same on the other side of the strip. Then you can just work along the length pulling the rubber over gently with the hook tool as you go. Watch centralisation again otherwise you will have a gap at one end when you fit the chrome sides.
You are now ready to bond in the side chromes. Use automotive body sealer from your local motor factors for £5 a tube. You need one tube and a corking gun. Be sure to check the widescreen Rubber lip will hold the pouter edge of the side chrome.
You may like to clamp it into place whist the sealer drys over 12 hours at least. Wear gloves, it does not come off skin easily.
Watch this video.
James
Finishing off an S1 roadster
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#4 Re: Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
Thank you Christopher and James, very helpful. The company is are giving me the costs for with or without them doing the strip down. Basically it will cost me £900 for them to do the stripping. I am tempted to do it my self but then I have to think about hiring a trailer x2 . Getting the screen fitted by an auto glass company and new rubbers etc.
It is make my mind up time for me but thank you again for the advice.
It is make my mind up time for me but thank you again for the advice.
Tony (E typed)
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
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christopher storey
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#5 Re: Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
Tony : if it is £900 for strip and refit, then at £450 for each operation I think it is something of a bargain bearing in mind that you have lights, bumpers, screen and chromes, hood and fittings all to come off as well as the fiddly bits like rubbers , washers etc., and of course trailer hire
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#6 Re: Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
Hi Tony.....my only advice would be to get it 100% clear what will be done....what parts are going to be removed and what is going to be painted......is it just the outside of the car....will the side/bottom of doors be done so will door cards come off...same with boot......you do not want to be dissapointed by it not meeting your expectations... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#7 Re: Stripping down car for a re spray refresh
Hi Steve, I will be agreeing a detailed spec of were things stop and start. Basically paint work will stop at the underside of seal rubbers and where no seal exist agree appropriate cutting in points. Part required will be agreed etc. I am sure there will be some extras but that will depend on what they find when they have taken off all the old paint.
It is a gamble but the work I have seen independently seems very good.
I am in the laps of the gods.
Tony
It is a gamble but the work I have seen independently seems very good.
I am in the laps of the gods.
Tony
Tony (E typed)
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
1962 E Type Series 1 Roadster (OTS)
Tony
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