The 'E' Type Forum

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:24 pm**

I'm going to replace the slave cylinder as whilst it hasn't failed yet the seal is visibly close to collapse and the clutch getting spongy. It has had 3500 miles but 30 years service... I'm going to replace the high pressure line too.

There's a big difference in price £26 to £86 between an 'aftermarket' or 'standard' one at SNG. Has anyone had any experience of either?

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 11:24 pm**

I usually buy the cheapest ones. I've had one booster that was missing a drilled hole but otherwise they seem to work.

Before you bin yours strip it and see what the bore looks like. It may be possible to rekit it and let it live another 30 years.

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 4:54 am**

The original one used to have a circlip to prevent the piston from popping out, which should not happen anyway -theoretically, it happened to me! The last cylinders I ordered from SNG (at 45 EUR) did not have the circlip, but work fine. If I had an original one, I would have resleeved it and restore and reuse it.

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 10:49 am**

Whenever any of my brake or clutch cylinders - master/slaves/servos - get to the end of their life, I just strip them down and send them off to get them re-sleeved with stainless steel bores, which are kept as spares. Once they are fitted they will continue to provide a much greater lifespan of use than the original units. I use a company called “Past Parts” in Suffolk who provide a very quick, efficient service. This company also will strip and rebuild a failed unit after re-sleeving it, to provide a “ready to use” spare, if that service is required. I like the fact they return all removed worn parts to show what they replaced. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer who has used them several times over the years.
Regards,
Dave

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 1:50 pm**

There is a US maker of solid stainless slaves called Hydracyl or some such. I have one and it looks very well made. Presumably corrosion-induced bore pitting/seal failure will be 'impossible', but bore wear may result in seal compromise eventually? Nearest to a fit 'n forget solution though, I expect, especially failures caused by lay-up under-use and condensation rot.

Posted: **Wed Oct 30, 2019 8:08 pm**

44DHR wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 30, 2019 10:49 am
Whenever any of my brake or clutch cylinders - master/slaves/servos - get to the end of their life, I just strip them down and send them off to get them re-sleeved with stainless steel bores, which are kept as spares. Once they are fitted they will continue to provide a much greater lifespan of use than the original units. I use a company called “Past Parts” in Suffolk who provide a very quick, efficient service. This company also will strip and rebuild a failed unit after re-sleeving it, to provide a “ready to use” spare, if that service is required. I like the fact they return all removed worn parts to show what they replaced. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer who has used them several times over the years.
Regards,
Dave

I will certainly Second that. Very happy with Past Parts work.

Posted: **Thu Oct 31, 2019 6:58 pm**

Another recommendation for Past Parts.

Had all my master/slave cylinders re-sleeved in SS recently. Plus servo refurbished.

Delighted.

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2019 3:58 pm**

Re hydraulics and bore reconditioning of masters or slaves, anyone finding leg-room a challenge for their height might also consider asking PP to reduce the clutch slave bore size, like I did a few years ago.

Whilst you get a harder pedal, which I actually found I preferred, as I found the original rather sloppy, you above all get a shorter throw, which I also found I preferred, so you can move the pedals towards the bulkhead and gain much-needed leg-room.

Anyone interested -

http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... t=leg+room

Edited 2/11/19 to correct memory and logic nonsense, merci Pete.

Posted: **Sat Nov 02, 2019 2:50 pm**

I had my slave cylinder go and replaced it with an aftermarket one and it was fine. However, a year later I had to replace my master cylinder and the aftermarket one was awful and didn’t work properly. The supplier informed me that this was not an unknown issue and I replaced it with the genuine one.

I think that saving a few Audi on aftermarket parts over genuine on cars of high value (like an E Type) is perhaps a false economy.

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2019 12:02 pm**

I’ve just been thru this. I bought a repro one from a major supplier, very cheap and did not fit. It was a ‘generic’ one that’s supposed to fit various vehicles. The fork end was nowhere near wide enough to go over the top of the pedal and the rod way too long, with not enough thread to shorten. It’s now in the bin and the original being re sleeved along with the brake masters with past parts. Cheers. Chris.

Posted: **Sun Dec 08, 2019 2:21 pm**

rfs1957 wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 01, 2019 3:58 pm
...consider asking PP to reduce the clutch slave bore size...
merci Pete.

I am looking to try this Pete. What did you do about the cylinder internals? P.Parts told me that I'll need to sort out my own internals to suit the smaller bore. Also, did you have a circlip on your slave cylinder? My is a more recent one that doesn't have one.

Simon

Posted: **Tue Dec 10, 2019 1:58 am**

Ask Rory, it’s his mod not mine, although I agree with his post as it now reads. If you are going down in size it should be trivial to get your piston turned down and PP supply a suitable seal?

Posted: **Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:16 am**

Fat fingers small keyboard long distance.
Nigel at PP must have supplied the smaller piston as I have no recollection of having to source this.
However as it is basically just a sliding slug with no rebates grooves or anything clever, I would have though PP would know what part of another car could be used instead ? There must have been innumerable similar components that used a 5/8 bore.
Turning down the original’s OD is fiddly as nothing to grip so - live centre pushing the part against a mandrel then taking v light cuts maybe ? Not very satisfactory.

Posted: **Tue Dec 10, 2019 11:57 am**

I was visualising something longer but you’re right, it’s just a slug with a concave rear.

If you opted to turn it from bar stock you’d have to machine a hemispherical recess before parting off to length. Not too bad to hog something out in alloy but some fancy grinding to make a cutter adequate for steel.

Pete
(With a markedly convex rear...)

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 4:54 pm**

My original “short” clutch slave cylinder is leaking and upon honing to rebuild it I discovered it is pitted. It had a circlip and I would set free play as per manual. The reproduction does not have the circlip so there is no way to set free play as the piston just keeps coming out, albeit without much pressure at rest.

I may send my orig out for sleeving but have the repro, it doesn’t leak, and I want to get the car back on the road.

How do you treat free play with this style short slave with no circlip?

Thanks for any help.

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:03 pm**

Hi Layne....the piston shouldnt pop out without the circlip....piston should be pushed right bac into the cylinder and then set free play...large external spring should hold pushrod fully back in the cylinder...Steve

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:36 pm**

It doesn’t pop out without the circlip and with the rod in but it has an internal spring that pushes it out to meet the rod so there is no freeplay once it moves to the outer position.

I am using the book method of adjusting without the external spring attached.
The one with the circlip limits outward travel so I can adjust the rod to get the1/6” of freeplay without the external spring attached..

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:41 pm**

Hi Layne...may be worth you looking here at the 2 different systems...manual/self adjusting and the differences..Steve viewtopic.php?t=9381

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:43 pm**

Thanks Steve, I’ll take a look.

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:20 pm**

Hi Layne...you need to look at the service manual re clutch adjustment.....the 1/16in measurement is used when you have an extetnal spring (manual adjust) with no external spring you use the larger measurement 3/4in (auto adjust)...there are 2 sections in the manual covering this....Steve

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