The 'E' Type Forum

Replacement of Oil seals on Diff and handbake pads on series 1.5 4.2L 2+2 1968 Etype.

Can anybody tell me if this work can be done without taking the rear cage off the car.

Many thanks

Peter

Peter : certainly the handbrake pads can be replaced with the cage in place, but it is fiddly to put it mildly, mainly because you cannot see what you are doing. As to whether you could change the diff seals, frankly I don't know . I think you can probably do the pinion seal without too much difficulty, but changing the drive flange seals requires a good deal of dismantling . It is not a big deal removing the cage, and it makes any of this work so much easier. I have done it on my own in about 2 hours, but it is much easier if you have a helper for the last part of removal and first part of replacement

Peter

CMC did my diff seals last year and they had to take the IRS out. As Christopher says it is best to drop the entire unit because it is quicker than just trying to do the handbrake alone in situ. While you have the IRS out it is worth checking the rear discs do not need replacing (mine did after 8 years) and the callipers are in good order (one of the pistons in my Zeus callipers had seized). Finally, if it has not been done already, well worth fitting and routing some remote brake bleed pipes and valves - makes bleeding a breeze. Dave Rawle has some good pictures of how to do it: http://davesetype.co.uk/etype08.htm

What David said! I can't imagine trying to do anything on the IRS without dropping the unit out of the car. You will most likely find other stuff needing attention anyway. The worst part of the job is usually removing the exhaust pipes, but the rest is pretty straightforward using a trolley jack. Two points worth mentioning:

1. Do not allow the IRS unit to hang from its rubber mounts, especially if the mounts are in questionable condition.

2. Ensure that the differential breather on the rear cover isn't plugged or restricted.

When I restored my car, I did both jobs with the IRS on horses before installing the cage into the shell. (I set the rear camber too, which is much easier to to at that stage.)

Later, a handbrake pad separated and I replaced the pads in situ with the car on jack stands. Although it can be done. it's not something I'd particularly ever want to do again. It would be somewhat easier if a hoist were available though.

So for both jobs, I'd definitely remove the IRS and do it the easy way. One thing, I know the output shafts on my '62 are slightly different but IIRC, the float of the output shaft bearings also needs to be set if the set-up is disturbed. Mine used shims but I believe some later cars used a crush spacer.