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#1 Restarting an engine after 6 years...

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:55 pm
by Heathg
Any advice really. It turns over, has been dry stored, water has not been drained and I have conflicting views on this. Redex has been poured into bores periodically but a Citroen mechanic said brake fluid was good for freeing potentially stuck rings, I have not done this but has anyone heard of this before?

1969 series 2 4.2

#2 Re: Restarting an engine after 6 years...

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:15 pm
by 1954Etype
Heathg wrote:Any advice really. It turns over, has been dry stored, water has not been drained and I have conflicting views on this. Redex has been poured into bores periodically but a Citroen mechanic said brake fluid was good for freeing potentially stuck rings, I have not done this but has anyone heard of this before?

1969 series 2 4.2
I would recommend removing and stripping down the head at least. One of the biggest problems is stuck valves and they are very easy to bend.

#3

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:56 am
by christopher storey
If it turns over then I would not bother removing the head as you will already have done the damage from stuck valves! Equally, I would not worry about stuck rings for the same reason. Engines in my experience are actually one of the most durable items in disuse, although things like oil seals do tend to dry out. Get it started! then you will have a much better idea of whether it requires total overhaul or not . Gummed rings can sometimes be freed by a liberal dose of cellulose thinners in each cylinder

By the way, I say this not just because it's April 1st

#4

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:36 pm
by Moeregaard
I've been down this road a number of times. If there are no stuck valves, refill the sump with fresh oil and squirt some oil into the bores. It's also a good idea to remove the cam covers and smear some cam lube on the lobes so that they won't be starting dry.

With the spark plugs removed and fuel pump disconnected, spin the engine over with the starter until the oil-pressure gauge starts to register. You might want to install a mechanical gauge in place of the sender for this.

Once this is done, replace the plugs and reconnect the fuel pump. Once the engine starts, maintain a fast idle (1,000--1,200 RPM) to get oil to all the seals. You will most likely have some fuel leaks from the carbs as the HD-series jet diaphragms don't age well when sitting. As the engine warms, keep a close eye on the temp gauge, in case the thermostat has stuck closed. As Chris said, there will probably be oil leaks, but these may not appear immediately.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

#5

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:32 pm
by Moeregaard
One point I neglected to mention is the old trick used by owners of old Harley-Davidsons, Triumphs, and other leaky motorcycles, to buy old seals a little time. Running a non-detergent oil will often re-swell organic seals. This will not save a leaky oil seal, but cork and asbestos turd (XK rear main) seals seem to respond well to this treatment.