The 'E' Type Forum

I am going to buy a load leveller for my engine hoist but all I can find are 680kg lift capacity ones
And tbh they all look like the same item
As the 4.2 engine and gearbox are around 700 kg this brings it mighty close to its breaking strain
Are there any more heavy duty ones out there or should I just get one of these and maybe put bigger chains and shackles on it?
It's odd that there are no bigger ones around
Many thanks
Joe

Joes66 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 10, 2020 7:44 am

As the 4.2 engine and gearbox are around 700 kg
Joe

You are misinformed. Under 300kg.

Engine/gearbox is around 750lb......my leveller is 500kg have upgraded my load leveler chains as the ones supplied look a bit flimsy..if your dropping engine out the bottom you dont need one....but they are usefull....Steve

When I removed my 3.8 engine & moss box, I used a leveller from machine mart, which was probably the same spec as the ones you are looking at. It came with 4 hooks and chains, which whilst not looking particularly robust, did the job with no dramas.

Ahh...
Great
I am going to buy the 2 tonn engine hoist as well
Thanks guys
Joe

Hi
Dont forget to buy also the part witch in on the hook ( see Richard's photos ) you need it to balance the weight of the engine/gearbox.
Mich

And if you plan to work on your engine get one of these:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11938&hilit=Balance ... 20#p119357

Geoff

Just to endorse what Richard ( Swaffie) has said - the Machine mart leveller is a splendid tool

One piece of advice though : grease the thread of the adjuster bar very thoroughly

Not quite on-topic but not far off ..........

Wanting to get an engine-crane of the sort shown here, as may be going for a drop-in-from-the-top instead of using the car-lift to drop the car onto the engine as in the past.

Could someone advise about maximum reach required ?

I have a 1.000 kg one in sight which will extend to 1m20 (where it's only rated to 450 kg) which seems more than enough, but confirmation appreciated.

Hi Rory...if you have side access to the car then consider going in from the side.....helped a friend recently..front access was blocked so the engine/gearbox on the lift went in from the side...seamed far less fraught and didnt need the arm full extended like you do if going in from front.....sorry dont have dimensions....Steve

Going in from the side will be very difficult with an E . As the load descends it travels through an arc and thus tends to move backwards( relative to the hoist ) . Rory's hoist looks very like the Machine Mart/Clarke's one and will be fine , using from recollection the next to outer hole for the extending arm

Thanks, gave up on the small-ads and ended up breaking eggs with a big stick, and a VISA card - now awaiting this lot.



Note the pointless but worth-it-for-the-metal-alone wheel storage trolley which I confidently predict can be made to carry 5 E-Type wheels too.

Hi
Nothing is impossible but it's certaily not easy to do by the side.
I did it several time by the front with a similar engine hoist 350kg at the last hole. I changed the sliding bar for a longuer one. Even if I decrease the possible weight, there is no problem, with a leveller it do the job.
Mich

If you go in from the side the engine is always in exactly the same position as when you go in from the front(useing a load leveler)..its only the lift that is a different position being side on.... you can get the hoist closer becaus the bonnet support frame is not in the way so the lift reach can be less......if you havent tried it then you wont know i done it on a fhc a few weeks ago....Steve

I think this is what you are aiming at, Rory. This is the Machine Mart folding hoist.



Headroom is quite restricted in my garage but we managed it. Took the crankshaft damper off for extra clearance.

I think I'd fit it from below if doing it again.

Regards

I'm sure this has been covered a million times elsewhere, but as we're on the subject, what are the pros and cons of assembling the picture frame after the engine is in the right place, suspended off the crane and with no load on the side frames ?

I'm going to run my engine out of the car before fitting it, so it will be pretty complete with ancilliaries at that point, hence I'd like to avoid lowering the car onto it as that will require considerable dismantling.

Since the chassis is in a hundred bits too, I was wondering whether to try fitting the front frames around the motor, which I think I've seen recommended by some, when a car is being reassembled from scratch.

Where are the catches ?

Hi Rory....have you already trial fitted the frames and bonnet......if not then better to do this with the engine out...you also have the option of fitting the side frames then wheeling the engine/gearbox in from the front then fitting picture frame etc.....there is no drawback as far as im aware..i have done it with no issues....Steve....

That's how I did it Rory. Worked like a charm. Very safe.

Fantastic news. Looks like a fricking Immaculate Conception, Jeremy - great pictures.

Re trial-run, Steve, am only reassembling parts that have been together for 30 years, not new ones, so not expecting any issues on that front (please !).

Hi Rory.....dont forget the two flat shims/spacers that go between the engine frames and picture frame at the bottom....Steve