The 'E' Type Forum

I am couple of weeks into assembly of my S1 3.8 FHC '63.

I think I am ready to fit the engine in, however before I do try to fit it in, I turn to the collective wisdom here..

I will be installing it through the front, with the picture frame off. Once the engine will be in position (but still supported by a hoist) I will assemble the front frame as well as the suspension along with the crossmember under the gearbox. Once it's all in, I will finally release the hoist and let the frame/front suspension support the engine.

So that's the plan...

PS. I know there is no gearbox tunnel isolation but I understand there was none originally, am I correct?

I will isolate the tunnel from the interior, as done by the factory.

Tadek

The car looks very good indeed. I see you have the propshaft in place already that is correct. You may want to temporarily remove the oil filter cannister, and the dipstick to make things easier. The speedometer drive and cable need to go in next followed by the throttle slave shaft.

Barrie

Thanks!

Well, it was not too bad to start off with:






Rusty floors, boot, but otherwise fairly good..

Tadek

Looking good, just a couple of things I would check.

Most important one, have you the correct clutch release bearing. The clutch release arm looks a bit close to the bellhousing casting, wonder if you have the "low" carbon bearing? (I have found this problem the hard way (having to take it all out again).

You might find it difficult to attach the flexible clutch hose to the holding bracket on the frame as your carbs will be in the way after the engine is in place.

Don't forget to remove the nut and washer on the centre gearbox support when fitting the lump. I am sure you wouldn't anyway.

Your oil filter housing will have to come off to clear the frames.

Have you fitted the carb overflow tubes? I probably just cannot see them.

Is there a speedo angle drive? Fill the gearbox first as its easier and check gear selection.

1/4 inch boards hanging from the frames will protect them.

No lifting eyes?

Looks like you have cracked it to me anyway.

Looks great...might use it as a reference for mine!
I was going to mention the carb float chamber overflow pipes too...much easier to fit now. They should gather together under a flat p clip mounted on the oil filter base
Robbie

Many thanks James and others,

I have run the engine for couple of hours now, the gearbox was attached.

I have tested the clutch and I hope it does work fine.. I had the whole clutch hydraulics installed, changed gears and it seemed OK.


Clutch flex cable - I was wondering about that: should I attach it ot the body instead? Is it easier to attach the bottom of the flex hose?

Carb overflow tubes in place - visible on the 1st photo.

Oil filter - Yes - I know..

Should I fit the angle drive prior to engine/gearbox installation? Note it's a synchro box.

What do you mean by "remove nut and washer on the centre gearbox support"?? You mean the rear gearbox mount? I guess I can only install the plate and the spring once I have the gearbox/engine in place..

Tadek, I meant the nut and washer that I can see screwed onto the stabilizer, above the gearbox and directly behind the engine.

James

Hi Tadek

I refitted my engine exactly as you are planning to.

I used a scissor jack (motorcycle jack to be accurate) to position the engine just a small distance above the engine mount brackets. Plus a trolley jack for the gearbox.

Axle stands under engine frames.

Picture Frame and Bonnet frame a bit fiddly as the engine is very close but a couple of hours of patience and all done.

Do make sure the engine is as close to the final position as possible (Obviously without any weight on the frames) otherwise you have the dreaded clutch housing battle with the torque bar brackets on the body.

But definitely my preferred process as you build up the engine completely before fitting and no frame or bulkhead damage.

Beat of luck
Ash

PS clutch pipe onto reservoir. Then fit to bracket at top once engine in.

PPS don’t forget to connect your starter motor connections too. So much easier done before you drop it down.

Well,

It was easier than I thought!

The engine went right in.

It's still suspended, in order to unladen the frame, but it's secured on the gearbox end, the reaction plate is in and the anchor brackets for the torsion bars are all in place.

I just need to tighten it all up.

I have the picture frame in place, too.

Tadek