Heater box air flap removal method

[eddiecross]

Hi,
Covered before apparently but darned if I can find it

Thx
Eddie

[Gfhug]

See similar topics below, that’s one good reason for posting a topic, it can bring up similar ones

Geoff

[politeperson]

Heat the circular clamp red hot then quench it. You will then find the screw comes out and the clamp will pull off the rod easily.

If you dont heat it, it will never come apart.

[eddiecross]

No screw. Hmm. Looks welded. Other threads say its brazed on.

Guess its staying and I'll blast and paint it in situ.







Thx
Eddie

[politeperson]

That is a good idea.

[myJagV12]

Hi Eddie,

This won't help you a lot but my S3 flap already had a different design (the SNG spare not) making the flap removeable.

Kind Regards,
Tom

[eddiecross]

I'll post some pictures as i restore it.
Casing is cleaning up quite well.





Been filling the rad with white vinegar and tapping the contents out each morning. Shifted quite a lot of sediment.
XK Engineering have good prices on top mesh (John I'll check if S/S- good point) and Negative Earth plate. Will go with them
Will use Rustbuster 2 pack on the casing. Have had really good results on the front mudguards and torsion bar shields.
Have a sheet of 15mm foam for the innards.


Box getting better. I bought some iron silicate for the blast cabinett. Seems less effective than the crushed glass I have been using. Maybe my puny 3HP 150L can't give it the flow rate it needs. Cranked it up to 80lb's. Zero dust on the plus side. Now brushed with MetalPrep and got a bit further but darn I thought I could crack this pretty quickly. I'll swap back the glass media. Oh well was only £20 worth.

Fan.... Dirt + rattle can overspray
Screwfix heavy duty degreaser (cheap and pretty good). Kids toothbrushes for the cage internals,
cotton buds and thinners to shift the paint.
Tried to remove the cage but stuck fast after I removed the fixing clip. So cleaning in-situ.

[johnetype]

I would consider using stainless steel mesh for the top, that's what I did. You can paint it black but at least it'll never rust out from under the paint again.

[eddiecross]

Couple of shots through to completion:
Blasting cab to get the worst rust off
Sandpaper then Metalprep got it pretty good
Thin coat of POR15 (black) inside and out
AutoTek Etch primer from the can which works well for me.
Light sanding to remove nibs and key the surface
Rust Buster EM121 Epoxy Rust Proofing Paint - 2 pack in black mixed thick and shot from a spray gun. Great finish. Really forgiving for amateurs like me. I'm a fan.