#1 Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2021 7:17 pm
Hi,
Covered before apparently but darned if I can find it
Thx
Eddie
Covered before apparently but darned if I can find it
Thx
Eddie
Geoff
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Heater box air flap removal method
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#2 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2021 7:21 pm
See similar topics below, that’s one good reason for posting a topic, it can bring up similar ones
Geoff
Geoff
#3 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2021 7:46 am
Heat the circular clamp red hot then quench it. You will then find the screw comes out and the clamp will pull off the rod easily.
If you dont heat it, it will never come apart.
If you dont heat it, it will never come apart.
#4 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2021 1:09 pm
No screw. Hmm. Looks welded. Other threads say its brazed on.
Guess its staying and I'll blast and paint it in situ.
Thx
Eddie
Guess its staying and I'll blast and paint it in situ.
Thx
Eddie
#5 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2021 9:40 am
That is a good idea.
#6 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2021 6:41 pm
Hi Eddie,
This won't help you a lot but my S3 flap already had a different design (the SNG spare not) making the flap removeable.
Kind Regards,
Tom
This won't help you a lot but my S3 flap already had a different design (the SNG spare not) making the flap removeable.
Kind Regards,
Tom
#7 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2021 10:25 pm
I'll post some pictures as i restore it.
Casing is cleaning up quite well.
Been filling the rad with white vinegar and tapping the contents out each morning. Shifted quite a lot of sediment.
XK Engineering have good prices on top mesh (John I'll check if S/S- good point) and Negative Earth plate. Will go with them
Will use Rustbuster 2 pack on the casing. Have had really good results on the front mudguards and torsion bar shields.
Have a sheet of 15mm foam for the innards.
Box getting better. I bought some iron silicate for the blast cabinett. Seems less effective than the crushed glass I have been using. Maybe my puny 3HP 150L can't give it the flow rate it needs. Cranked it up to 80lb's. Zero dust on the plus side. Now brushed with MetalPrep and got a bit further but darn I thought I could crack this pretty quickly. I'll swap back the glass media. Oh well was only £20 worth.
Fan.... Dirt + rattle can overspray
Screwfix heavy duty degreaser (cheap and pretty good). Kids toothbrushes for the cage internals,
cotton buds and thinners to shift the paint.
Tried to remove the cage but stuck fast after I removed the fixing clip. So cleaning in-situ.
Casing is cleaning up quite well.
Been filling the rad with white vinegar and tapping the contents out each morning. Shifted quite a lot of sediment.
XK Engineering have good prices on top mesh (John I'll check if S/S- good point) and Negative Earth plate. Will go with them
Will use Rustbuster 2 pack on the casing. Have had really good results on the front mudguards and torsion bar shields.
Have a sheet of 15mm foam for the innards.
Box getting better. I bought some iron silicate for the blast cabinett. Seems less effective than the crushed glass I have been using. Maybe my puny 3HP 150L can't give it the flow rate it needs. Cranked it up to 80lb's. Zero dust on the plus side. Now brushed with MetalPrep and got a bit further but darn I thought I could crack this pretty quickly. I'll swap back the glass media. Oh well was only £20 worth.
Fan.... Dirt + rattle can overspray
Screwfix heavy duty degreaser (cheap and pretty good). Kids toothbrushes for the cage internals,
cotton buds and thinners to shift the paint.
Tried to remove the cage but stuck fast after I removed the fixing clip. So cleaning in-situ.
#8 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2021 11:14 pm
I would consider using stainless steel mesh for the top, that's what I did. You can paint it black but at least it'll never rust out from under the paint again.
#9 Re: Heater box air flap removal method
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2021 7:00 pm
Couple of shots through to completion:
Blasting cab to get the worst rust off
Sandpaper then Metalprep got it pretty good
Thin coat of POR15 (black) inside and out
AutoTek Etch primer from the can which works well for me.
Light sanding to remove nibs and key the surface
Rust Buster EM121 Epoxy Rust Proofing Paint - 2 pack in black mixed thick and shot from a spray gun. Great finish. Really forgiving for amateurs like me. I'm a fan.
Blasting cab to get the worst rust off
Sandpaper then Metalprep got it pretty good
Thin coat of POR15 (black) inside and out
AutoTek Etch primer from the can which works well for me.
Light sanding to remove nibs and key the surface
Rust Buster EM121 Epoxy Rust Proofing Paint - 2 pack in black mixed thick and shot from a spray gun. Great finish. Really forgiving for amateurs like me. I'm a fan.