engine frames

[driver]

Hi ,
can the engine frames be re moved on a s3 without removing the engine, has any one done this job?
Thanks Rob Gill

[angelw]

Rob Wrote:

can the engine frames be re moved on a s3 without removing the engine, has any one done this job?

Hello Rob,
Yes, I've done this many times. In fact, any car where we are doing a full restoration, we remove and replace the engine by supporting the engine in place and then dismantle, or assemble, respectively, everything around it.

Generally when having to support the weight of the engine from below, I use a motor cycle scissor lift jack with a custom platform to spread the load over the full area of the sump. If the job of removing and replacing the engine frames is going to happen over no longer than a few days, where I can live without the use of motor cycle jack, I leave the engine supported by the jack. If for a longer period, I use a thick piece of timber with a similar plan as the sump and use two jack stands placed in line on the centre line. An "A" frame (made from timber) that locates under the edges of the sump, is used to provide stability. I'll Post a picture of the "A" frame.

Regards,

Bill

[abowie]

Caveat: I've never tried this and don't have a lot of experience with V12 cars.

I'm assuming you want to remove them to replace a damaged one?

You could probably, maybe get one engine frame off at a time, if you could support the engine adequately.

The engine is supported on both sides by the engine mounts and these bolt directly to the frame. You'd have to lift the car up then lower it onto something solid that supports the engine, in its correct 3D orientation, from below.

Then you'd need to remove all the mounting bolts; I have no idea what access would be like.

I'm not sure if you could then wangle the frame out. You might need to remove the picture frame completely to get enough forward movement to slide the bottom inboard tube out of the body.

If you do try it, make a video for Youtube.

EDIT: I see above that Bill can do it!

[Fspp369]

I am just stating to get the bits together to rebuild my S3 OTS , part of that process was a grit blast to the frames, this revealed two small pin holes about 200mm up from the lower bulkhead brazed joint on the N/S frame. They are about 2-3 mm dia .
What do the members think about repairing frames, is it indeed possible? I’m not afraid of brazing or welding but I’m aware of the metallurgy of the frames and do not have any knowledge of the feasibility of repair.
I’d rather not spend £1000:on a new frame unless I really have to.
Any replies most gratefully received.
Peter

[Richardhealey]

The accepted wisdom is not to attempt repairs. What you can see from the outside is not going to be representative of the inside of the tubes and frames. If there are holes on the outside, there maybe paper thin areas elsewhere. Many posts on the special Reynolds tubing…
I had that nasty surprise - all looked OK when oily and dirty - quite a different story when blasted.
Remember - your engine and entire front suspension relies on this little lot…
Good luck…

[abowie]

What do the members think about repairing frames

No, no and no.

[abowie]

What do the members think about repairing frames

I’d rather not spend £1000:on a new frame unless I really have to.

No, no and no.

You own a car worth £100k. Spend the money.

[angelw]

Hello Rob,
Following is the open at the top "A" frame I use to support the engine when removing both engine frames. The ends circled in Red fit up snug either side of the vertical sides of the sump an locate under the horizontal edges of the sump. Admittedly, the ends that interface with the edges of the sump could have been cut to be in the horizontal plane, but it does the job well as is. The support under the sump is arranged so that slight weight is taken by the "A" Frame to ensure that it doesn't move. The Gearbox rear mount is left in place; accordingly the engine remains solid as a rock.



Regards,

Bill