Fuel pump
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Topic author - Posts: 220
- Joined: Fri Sep 06, 2019 3:25 pm
- Location: South Lincs
#1 Fuel pump
Tried to start the car yesterday and it coughed and spluttered without starting . Then I realised there was no ticking noise from the FP . After a few sharp taps with a small hammer , normal service was resumed and the car ran ok .
My question are - what`s wrong with the FP ? Why does tapping it cure the problem ? Lastly , is this a long term solution , or do I have to buy a new pump , and if so what type ? ( original or cheapo alternative ) . Thanks a lot in advance .
My question are - what`s wrong with the FP ? Why does tapping it cure the problem ? Lastly , is this a long term solution , or do I have to buy a new pump , and if so what type ? ( original or cheapo alternative ) . Thanks a lot in advance .
Mark
1968 series 1.5 roadster
1968 series 1.5 roadster
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#2 Re: Fuel pump
It append on my MGs sometimes when they’ve not run for a bit…doesn’t mean the pump’s knackered. It just sticks and the solenoid isn’t powerful enough to overcome the friction
Robbie 1962 3.8 Coupe OSG 1962 OTS ODG
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#3 Re: Fuel pump
The points are on a rocker that flip flop.....open it up and clean it and inspect the points ....i wouldnt buy a cheap one i would get an SU pump with electronics.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#4 Re: Fuel pump
Sticking is not uncommon with disuse, and once it's been in operation for a while it should be good to go . However, if this trouble recurs, spares for these pumps are readily available ,( I got them from SNGB but Burlen Fuel Sysyems are the primary source) and indeed I've just changed the points and rocker assembly on one of mine - it was a bit fiddly but following the instructions in my SU manual it was not that difficult. If you need instructions, I can always e mail you
I'm afraid I do not share Steve's ( mcjag) enthusiasm for the new pumps with electronics having seen more than one example at Hutson's ( admittedly of the V12 type ) which had suffered internal fires!!
I'm afraid I do not share Steve's ( mcjag) enthusiasm for the new pumps with electronics having seen more than one example at Hutson's ( admittedly of the V12 type ) which had suffered internal fires!!
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#5 Re: Fuel pump
Just done a search of the forum and only one report of a fuel pump fire.....on a standard points pump......however it really depends what type of fire we are talking about....an electrical burning insulation type.....or fuel igniting.......if your going to do some work on your pump it pays to insert a fuse in the pump feed.....the standard electrical cct isnt fused.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#6 Re: Fuel pump
The series 1 have a dedicated 5 amp fuse. Fuse 4. I take mine out when working on the car to avoid unnecessarily raising fuel.
Maybe other series don't?
Regards
Maybe other series don't?
Regards
Stuart
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
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Topic author - Posts: 220
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- Location: South Lincs
#7 Re: Fuel pump
CS - I`m sure this problem has occured before , so it looks like a rebuild kit might be the best idea . Is getting the pump out difficult ? It looks like access might be difficult .
Mark
1968 series 1.5 roadster
1968 series 1.5 roadster
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#8 Re: Fuel pump
Mark Wrote:
Not difficult, just a little awkward. Probably half an hour job to remove and replace, including boot area trim.
Regards, Bill
Hello Mark,Is getting the pump out difficult ? It looks like access might be difficult .
Not difficult, just a little awkward. Probably half an hour job to remove and replace, including boot area trim.
Regards, Bill
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#9 Re: Fuel pump
I assume you are talking about a standard SU pump.
The SU pump works as a lift pump, the same as the nodding donkey oil well rigs that go up and down continuously. Every time it lifts fuel, it draws ~3amps and this is switched on and off by the points cradle over and over again. This is quite a high current and the points corrode a bit due to electrical arcing and eventually the pump contacts corrode and stick. Cue the big hammer.
This is exactly what I made the fuel pump circuit board for (see classifieds section). This works by diverting the big ~3amp current away from the points and this switches through a transistor rather than through the points directly. The life of the points cradle is extended as it never sees high switching currents any more. Essentially anyone with a semi life-expired points cradle should fit one.
You should, as a minimum, clean up the contacts of the points cradle using emery paper or this will keep coming back whenever the car is left standing for any period of time.
kind regards
Marek
The SU pump works as a lift pump, the same as the nodding donkey oil well rigs that go up and down continuously. Every time it lifts fuel, it draws ~3amps and this is switched on and off by the points cradle over and over again. This is quite a high current and the points corrode a bit due to electrical arcing and eventually the pump contacts corrode and stick. Cue the big hammer.
This is exactly what I made the fuel pump circuit board for (see classifieds section). This works by diverting the big ~3amp current away from the points and this switches through a transistor rather than through the points directly. The life of the points cradle is extended as it never sees high switching currents any more. Essentially anyone with a semi life-expired points cradle should fit one.
You should, as a minimum, clean up the contacts of the points cradle using emery paper or this will keep coming back whenever the car is left standing for any period of time.
kind regards
Marek
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