S2 long stud removal ..

[Paul bow]

Hi guys having a real problem here trying to remove the cylinder head from an E that’s been sitting around for over 25 years.. so far a spark plug has snapped off flush in the head, and the heads not budging from the block..
That aside and I’m sure it’s in here somewhere just can’t find it, how’s the best way to remove these long studs from the block, I understand they sit far down and within the water jackets.. they need to come out for the rebuild process, and secondly if they breaks in the lower section of the block what’s the solution??
Thanks in advance

[abowie]

Some lift the head far enough with a hydraulic jack that they can cut the studs off under it. That at least secures the head for you, but then you have the nightmare of removing the studs.

To be honest though, unless the block is precious (matching numbers for your car) you're better off scrapping it and moving on.

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul....remove the core pulgs...at least then you can get a look at the bottom of the studs.....probkem with scrapping the block is that you have an engine number change....you are then supposed to notify DVLA....Its really inportant to lift the head square.....very easy to get it stuck on the studs......as Andrew says jacks....and wooden wedges are not uncommon to use.......good penetrating fluid for a week if needed just to soak in.......dont rush......Steve

[Paul bow]

Thanks guys.. it’s a matching number car so really got to preserve this block.. as for cutting the studs I did that before on a couple of really tough ones on my S1 rebuild, however not worked in a long stud block so the idea of removing the plugs and letting soak sounds like a great plan of action.. thanks for the tip

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul.....i was refering to soaking the studs at the top to get the head off......not sure it would soak through the crud build up at the bottom.....at lease you can inspect the bottom of the stud......sometimes they are eaten more than half way through so you know they will snap off if you try to undo them.....but at least with the core plugs out yoy have more options......Steve

[tinworm]

If the engine has had regular coolant changes (with anti freeze) you may be lucky with the stud wastage. As mentioned above best to take out the core plugs and have a look first - if the studs are ok best to leave them alone. I heat the head with a torch (not too hot!) and work away at freeing the corrosion in the stud holes. You can make (or get an engineering shop to make) a plate that mounts to the cam stud holes and has tapped holes above each stud so you can force it off evenly (v12's especially) doubt you will need that. Take your time is my advice.

good luck Barrie

[Paul bow]

Ok thanks again guys..
So if the studs look corroded at the bottom or half way down inside the water jackets they’ve surely got to come out, I mean you can’t go to the expense and time of rebuilding an engine like the 4.2 and leave them in situ knowing they could give up at any time especially when it’s fully rebuilt and in doing so upping the compression and tightness of the engine all over again albeit with weak head studs..
of course here’s the dilemma... are you saying if these break in the block it’s as good as knackered?

I really hope not, as I just fancy these being a real problem with it having sat around for 25 years !!

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul.....a good machine shop can drill and retap for new studs.....Steve

[Paul bow]

Thanks Steve..
I’m a bit ahead of myself with this as of yet the studs haven’t been taken to task. But I just had a lightbulb moment and thought you could helicoil (in the event of breakage) the top of the block and use a short stud set up as per the series 1 engines..any thoughts on that ?

[mgcjag]

It will hold the head on and some have fitted a nut uo through the core plug to fit on a shorter bolt...as a quick fix....but its not how the engine was designed.....if your haveing the block machined then deal with any issues....Steve

[Paul bow]

Yep makes perfect sense.. I was beginning to think it was a done deal if they broke off in the water jackets.
Thanks

[abowie]

Thanks Steve..
I’m a bit ahead of myself with this as of yet the studs haven’t been taken to task. But I just had a lightbulb moment and thought you could helicoil (in the event of breakage) the top of the block and use a short stud set up as per the series 1 engines..any thoughts on that ?

The design of the casting is totally different.