Dumb Clutch question
#1 Dumb Clutch question
This will sound really dumb, but I'm not well up on the mechanical engine side, body & trim was my thing.
First off, we believe the clutch plates are stuck together, I have read all the post re: Sticking clutch and that's what we are heading towards and also post's re: master/slave cylinders. but not found what I'm looking for.
Had the clutch master and slave cylinders refurbed and fitted back on the car and procceded to bleed the clutch (I am the one sat inside the car shouting up/down!) Bled all the air out and the pedal goes all the way down to the floor with very little resistance and the push rod only moves about 1/2-3/4" and does not seem to return rearwards on it's own. This appears to be the type without a return spring fitted.
So the question is, does the clutch need un-sticking first for the push rod to return rearwards and operate the clutch when the pedal is depressed?
Told you it was a dumb question but we have spent getiing on for 4 hours trying to figure whats going on.
First off, we believe the clutch plates are stuck together, I have read all the post re: Sticking clutch and that's what we are heading towards and also post's re: master/slave cylinders. but not found what I'm looking for.
Had the clutch master and slave cylinders refurbed and fitted back on the car and procceded to bleed the clutch (I am the one sat inside the car shouting up/down!) Bled all the air out and the pedal goes all the way down to the floor with very little resistance and the push rod only moves about 1/2-3/4" and does not seem to return rearwards on it's own. This appears to be the type without a return spring fitted.
So the question is, does the clutch need un-sticking first for the push rod to return rearwards and operate the clutch when the pedal is depressed?
Told you it was a dumb question but we have spent getiing on for 4 hours trying to figure whats going on.
Steve
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
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#2 Re: Dumb Clutch question
The clutch plate is very hard to move even when not stuck to the flywheel, so it doesn't sound as though you have bled all of the air out. Without a firm pedal, you haven't done any useful work yet.
kind regards
Marek
kind regards
Marek
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christopher storey
- Posts: 5698
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- Location: cheshire , england

#3 Re: Dumb Clutch question
Your bleeding technique sounds rather strange: the one shouting up/down should be the one operating the bleed valve - up with it shut/ down with it open . And the answer to your question is that the state of the driven plate will have no influence at all on the feel of the pedal
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#4 Re: Dumb Clutch question
As above but you would be better fitting an external return spring to the slave in my opinion.....there are mis match problems with slave size and pushrod length you also need to look at this...when you bleed the slave air can remain in the end if the cylinder.....so open the nipple push the piston right back in to the bottom of the cylinder.....you will probably see more air come out......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5 Re: Dumb Clutch question
Just to clarify, I was shouting up/down in responce to the up/down from Barrie underneath the car, Barrie manufactured a very small jack and managed to seperate the clutch plates very easily. We had already done as you suggested Steve, many times ha ha, train of thought now is that the master may have a problem, so they are both coming off and going back to the refurb Co to see if there is a problem in them rather than scratching our heads. 
Steve
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
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#6 Re: Dumb Clutch question
You seperated the clutch plate with a small jack?......please explain.....Im not following this.....when you press the clutch pedal does the slave pushrod move the clutch fork and thrust bearing enough to dissenguage the clutch?......you still need to think about the return spring..ps re bleeding did you disconnect the pushrod from the fork to ensure you push the piston fully iin to expell all air......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#7 Re: Dumb Clutch question
I'll get a photo of the 'jack' next time I'm over and get a better explanation from Barrie. That's the problem we are having Steve, the slave push rod has no pressure behind it, and moves back and forth freely if that makes sense?
Yes, push rod was disconnected.
Yes, push rod was disconnected.
Steve
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
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#8 Re: Dumb Clutch question
Pm sent.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#9 Re: Dumb Clutch question
Sorry, probably me being dumb, but if the engine and gearbox are in the car you can't get to anything with any "jack" or implement to separate the plates can you??
Malcolm
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
I only fit in a 2+2, so got one!
1969 Series 2 2+2
2009 Jaguar XF-S
2015 F Type V6 S
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#10 Re: Dumb Clutch question
I'm trying to work out what's going on here - and no I am not the Barrie mentioned above.
Barrie
Barrie
1968 E-type roadster, 1964 E-type fixed head 1995 Ferrari 355 1980 Ferrari 308 1987 V8 90 Landrover 1988 Bedford rascal van 1943 Ford GPW
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#11 Re: Dumb Clutch question
Been thinking about this...i reckon a small jack was used on the clutch fork to operated the clutch.....this wouldnt actually release a clutch if it was stuck.......also spoke to the original poster.....master and slave are being removed to check piston and seals......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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